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Catalan Cuisine: Europe's Last Great Culinary Secret [Anglais] [Broché]

Colman Andrews , Lauren Jarrett


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Le premier livre de cuisine de Colman Andrews, «Catalan Cuisine», publié initialement en 1988, a récemment été nommée l'une des «50 meilleurs livres de cuisine de tous les temps» par la Food Observateur mensuel; son plus récent, «The Country Cooking of Ireland», a été honoré comme meilleur livre de cuisine internationale par la Fondation James Beard en 2010 et l'Association internationale des professionnels de la cuisine en 2011, et a battu toutes les autres entrées dans toutes les catégories comme 2010 James Beard livre de cuisine de l'année. Andrews a été co-fondateur de Saveur (E.U.), et son rédacteur en chef de 2002 à 2006. Après avoir quitté le magazine, il est devenu le critique gastronomique pour Gourmet. Né a Los Angeles, avec des diplômes en histoire et en philosophie de l'UCLA, il a été un critique gastronomique le Los Angeles Times et chroniqueur de vin et spiritueux pour Los Angeles Magazine. Le récipiendaire de huit prix James Beard, Andrews est le co-auteur et co-rédacteur de trois livres de cuisine pour Saveur et six de ses propres livres: «Everything on the Table», «Flavors of the Riviera», «Catalan Cuisine», «The Country Cooking of Ireland», «The Country Cooking of Italy», et «Ferran: The Inside Story of El Bulli and the Man Who Reinvented Food» (en traduction française, «La Cuisine réinventée, Ferran Adrià : L'homme qui a changé notre façon de manger d'El Bulli et l'homme qui a réinventé l'alimentation»), une biographie du superchef catalan Ferran Adrià. Andrews a récemment été nommé directeur éditorial de The Daily Meal, une «mega-site» à propos nourriture et le vin (www.thedailymeal.com). Ajoute Andrews, «Judicis argutum labor hic formidat acumen.»

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Amazon.com: 4.6 étoiles sur 5  7 commentaires
7 internautes sur 7 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Excellent study of Catalan cuisine. Buy It. 12 juin 2006
Par B. Marold - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Broché
`Catalan Cuisine, Vivid Flavors from Spain's Mediterranean Coast' by the very notable culinary journalist and editor, Colman Andrews, contributes to Spain's cuisine's being the third best documented European cuisine, after Italy and France. Andrews is an important figure in culinary reporting less from his books than from his position as editor of the excellent `Saveur' magazine which, with `Cooks Illustrated', should be one of the two magazines a foodie really should be reading.

`Catalan Cuisine' is as good or better than Andrews other ethno-culinary volume, `Flavors from the Riviera'. Like the earlier volume, its strengths lie primarily in history and a focus on ethnographic accuracy (without loosing too much in the way of practical cookery). For example, Andrews' recipe for the Catalan version of `tortilla espagnole' (potato frittata or omelet) is different from every other recipe I have seen from Spanish culinary experts such as Penelope Casas and Janet Mendel in that it contains no onion. This omission makes the dish a lot less interesting to me as food, but it reveals something which sets Catalan cooking apart from the rest of Spain.

In `Delicioso', Ms. Casas identifies Catalonia as the land of the casseroles. On first blush, there is little evidence of this attribution in Mr. Andrews' book. `Casserole' doesn't even appear in his index. But then, we recall a paragraph early in the book where Andrews identifies the most important cooking utensils in Catalonia. After the ubiquitous paella pan, there is the `cassola' (in Catalan, or `cazuela' in Castilian), an earthenware dish with deeper, straighter sides than a paella and an inside glaze. I really regret that Mr. Andrews didn't find his way clear to give us a picture of this dish, as I visualize it as a sort of `Tarte Tatin' dish a bit over 12 inches in diameter and about two inches deep.

One of the more interesting aspects of Andrews' books is that he always illuminates interesting historical and geographical aspects of his subject. On the Riviera, we learned that for a large part of its history, the French Riviera was politically a part of Italy. Here, we learn that the Catalan influenced region, `paisos catalans', extends into southwestern France, Valencia, the Balearic Islands, Andorra, and even a corner of Italian Sardinia. The evidence of this influence is the range of the Catalan language (`Spanish' is actually Castilian, one of the four official languages of Spain, including Basque and Galician), which is not simply a Spanish dialect, but a language of its own, as similar to Italian and French as to Castilian. This is due to the fact that Catalonia was the center of Roman influence in their province, `Hispanolia', and Barcelona was the principle Roman seaport to this region, through which was introduced olive and grape cultivation techniques.

Andrews' primary premise in this book is that Catalan cuisine is at least as distinctive in European food as, for example the cuisine of Campagnia (Naples and Southern Italy). To this end, his organization is highly analytical rather than simply being a collection of representative recipes. The flagship of things distinct about Catalan cuisine may be the four classic sauces of the region, `allioli', `sofregit', `picada', and `samfaina'. While each has some similarities to sauces well known to French and Italian cuisines, the real importance lies in the differences. `Allioli' in Catalonia is made exclusively with garlic and olive oil plus salt (All Catalan food is heavily salted). Other minor ingredients such as vinegar and herbs are allowed (making it seem very much like vinaigrette). The similar Provencal sauce, `Aioli which includes eggs is dismissed as `fancy mayonnaise' which, by the way, Catalans claim was invented in Minorca and not the French city of Mayenne. `Sofregit' is similar to the Italian `soffritto' and the French `mirepoix'. `Picada' is very similar to the `pesto' of nearby Liguria in Italy. Samfaina is similar to ratatouille, cooked down to the consistency of a relish.

Next, practically a third of the book is taken up by `Part Three: The Raw Materials', in which Andrews discusses and presents recipes for the fifteen most important ingredients, which are eggplant, nuts, anchovies, rice, poultry, salt cod, mushrooms, wild game, snails, legumes, organ meats, olives and olive oil, eggs, seafood, and `the pig'. To the logical among us, this may seem a bit messy since one would think that anchovies and salt cod would fall under `seafood', and that organ meats would fall under `the pig', but it all works well enough, as the categories are a way of organizing recipes and not a guide to the Barcelona commodities market.

I really like the fact that aside from having an excellent bibliography, the book refers to several important books on related subject not only to support a point, but also to refer one to important recipes Andrews does not include himself in this book. His most important references are to Penelope Casas' `The Food and Wine of Spain' for recipes on sausage making. This is symptomatic, in that Parsons has no recipes for `basic' techniques such as pasta, pastry, bread, or charcuterie (sausages), in spite of the fact that both pasta and sausage and ham are important Catalan culinary products.

Andrews makes up for his unusual organization by providing an excellent Appendix of `Recipes according to Category' and other useful sources for Spanish tourism and shopping.

I think it's ironic that at the top of the cover is a blurb by the famous Barcelona chef, Ferran Adria praising the book, while there is not a single reference to Adria or El Bulli in this 1988 original book.

A superb culinary essay. Excellent for lovers of Spanish food and foodies in general.
9 internautes sur 10 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Turn any meal into a celebration of taste and delight! 4 mai 2000
Par Midwest Book Review - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Broché
In Catalan Cuisine, Colman Andrews draws upon the great cooking traditions of Spain's Catalonia region. This superb collection of regional dishes showcases the simple and vibrant flavors in hundreds of Catalonia's best and beloved recipes ranging from Valencian Paella with Shellfish; Eggplant Flan; and Sweet Red Peppers Stuffed with Duck, to Salt Cod with Garlic and Paprika; Pork-Stuffed Apples, and Cinnamon Ice Cream with Warm Strawberry Coulis. The recipes are "kitchen cook friendly" and will turn any family meal into a celebration of taste and delight.
27 internautes sur 36 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 AUTHENTIC CATALAN FOOD mmmmm 8 décembre 1999
Par LOLA ALONSO-PEREZ - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Broché
I am a Catalan person living abroad, and sometimes it is difficult to explain friends that Catalan food is something different to what everybody knows as Mediterranean food, since being totally Mediterranean, it is not Italian nor French. This books discovers the authentic taste of Catalan food, that, as the author says, HAS TO BE DISCOVERED. Try it and enjoy your meals. I can say that CATALAN FOOD IS ONE MILLION BETTER THAN ITALIAN AND FRENCH. It keeps simple and accentuated flavors with simple raw materials, but obtaining an PERFECT COMBINATION.
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE AUTHOR, and please continue plublishing thousands of more recipes of Catalan food.
13 internautes sur 17 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Buy this book and eat your way through Catalonia 10 mai 2001
Par "petersonreviews" - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Broché
Catalan cuisine is ancient. It earliest roots go all the way back to the Romans who occupied northeastern Spain.
It uses many of the same ingredients as other Mediterranean cuisines -- tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, beans, pasta and all kinds of meat -- but it combines them in unexpected ways.
Who would expect salt cod with honey, for example? Catalan cuisine has it, and Colman Andrews presents its recipe here. And who would expect a restaurant which specializes in salt cod? Andrews tells us that Barcelona has one.
He says that one very unusual -- indeed unique -- feature of Catalan cuisine is its habit of mixing olive oil and lard together, in the same dish, as a cooking oil. Catalans also use butter as a cooking fat, making for rich, nourishing, tasty dishes.
Catalonia has both mountains and seashore. So one may find spiny lobster stew (Civet de Llogosta) on the one hand and Andorran-style trout (Truita de Riu Andorrana) on the other.
10 internautes sur 15 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 AUTHENTIC CATALAN FOOD mmmmm 8 décembre 1999
Par Un client - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Broché
I am a Catalan person living abroad, and sometimes it is difficult to explain friends that Catalan food is something different to what everybody knows as Mediterranean food, since being totally Mediterranean, it is not Italian nor French. This books discovers the authentic taste of Catalan food, that, as the author says, HAS TO BE DISCOVERED. Try it and enjoy your meals. I can say that CATALAN FOOD IS ONE MILLION BETTER THAN ITALIAN AND FRENCH. It keeps simple and accentuated flavors with simple raw materials, but obtaining an PERFECT COMBINATION.
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE AUTHOR, and please continue plublishing thousands of more recipes of Catalan food.
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