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Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond
 
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Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond [Format Kindle]

Tadashi Ono , Harris Salat
5.0 étoiles sur 5  Voir tous les commentaires (2 commentaires client)

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Introduction
 
Let’s start with a groundbreaking moment back in 1872, when Emperor Meiji of Japan did something no other ruler of that country had done for a thousand years, namely, bite into a juicy hunk of meat in public. That simple act stunned his subjects—and forever changed the course of Japanese culture. It gave birth to a new kind of cooking in Japan, a new kind of hearty, rib-sticking comfort food cooking that’s beloved there to this day. It’s a world apart from traditional Japanese standards like miso soup, grilled fish, and pickled vegetables, and it’s the amazing—and surprising—cooking that we celebrate in this book. 
     But how could a singular chomp shake up an entire country? 
     Nineteen years earlier, in 1853, American warships had suddenly appeared in the Japanese port of Yokohama. Until then, the country’s leaders had sealed off Japan from the rest of the world for more than two hundred years, during which time Japanese couldn’t leave on pain of death. But while Japan faced inward those two centuries, America and European nations exploded into the most powerful economic and military powers on earth. So when Yankee warships showed up, and then demanded Japan open their doors to trade—or else—the Japanese had little choice but to accept.
     Soon more Westerners planted themselves in Japan. Their arrival triggered a profound upheaval in the country that led to the formation of a modern state under the emperor, who was determined to launch an industrial revolution and build a modern military just like in the West. 
     Foreigners arriving in Japan brought with them strange and new ingredients, dishes, and eating habits—many of these centered on consuming meat. Up to then, meat eating in Japan was taboo, actually banned by Buddhist edict for a millennium. During their period of isolation, Japanese relied primarily on fish, vegetables, tofu, and traditional seasonings like dashi, miso, and soy sauce. But the emperor and his minions credited meat and dairy eating for the strapping physiques of the Westerners, who towered over Japanese at the time. So they urged Japanese to consume meat and other Western foods. The emperor’s very public meat encounter followed, and soon after that, in 1873, an official banquet was thrown in Japan for a visiting Italian royal, where, for the first time, this formal meal was prepared entirely of French cuisine. 
     These seminal events got the Western cuisine ball rolling, and before long, eating Western-style cuisine became a powerful symbol of modernity in Japan. 
     In the late nineteenth century, Western-style restaurants began to appear in Japan, like Seiyo-ken (“Western House”), which opened its doors in Tokyo in 1872. At the same time, the Japanese military began adopting Western-style foods. From these beginnings, ordinary Japanese began to learn of this new style of eating. Chefs, food companies, and cooks began to adapt these dishes to Japanese tastes, mixing and matching both Western and local ingredients, such as butter and soy sauce. Within a few decades, the mass media, especially women’s magazines and radio shows, began featuring this cooking. What started as restaurant fare, like tonkatsu, or military chow, like curry, began to filter into homes across Japan. By the first half of the twentieth century, Chinese and Korean dishes like ebi chili, bulgogi, and chahan, also adapted to Japanese tastes, joined Western cooking in this culinary march. And in the years after World War II, Americans occupying Japan added their own unique food influences, including Japanese-style (wafu) pasta. 
     The embrace of foreign food evolved in Japan into a parallel cuisine, comfort food cooking that became as beloved as traditional Japanese fare. This modern style of eating picked up steam as Japan became increasingly urbanized, and we consider even stalwart dishes like soba, udon, and tempura to be a part of it. 
     What fascinates us, as you’ll read in the pages that follow, are how so many of the dishes we describe began life as restaurant cooking, but then were quickly embraced by home cooks. And even today, these dishes are enjoyed both at neighborhood eateries and at the dining table. And that’s key. Because, as you’ll see in the pages that follow, these dishes are as delicious and amazing as they are simple and easy to whip up.
     We organize our book by greatest hits, so soon you’ll be swooning over ramen, gyoza, curry, tonkatsu, furai, okonomiyaki, wafu pasta, and all the other dishes we introduce here, just like Japanese everywhere. Packed with flavor, easy to cook, and totally irresistible, these recipes will have you at the first bite. Enjoy!

------------------------------------------ 
 
Ramen Soup and Chashu 
Master Recipe

A round of applause goes to Tadashi for creating a home cook’s version of ramen soup from scratch. As we mentioned earlier, this recipe is Tadashi’s adaptation of Tokyo’s prototypical clean, fragrant ramen soup. Note that we cook the pork shoulder for chashu along with the stock ingredients. Chashu is slow-braised meat that’s simmered until tender. It’s then sliced and laid on top of ramen noodles. The way we cook it, in the soup, is the way real ramen joints do—a one-two punch that adds richness and flavor to both the soup and the tender pork. You can prepare a batch of ramen soup ahead of time, and keep it in the freezer for up to one month. For the chashu, fresh pork belly or pork loin also works great.
 
Makes 2 quarts 
2 pounds chicken bones (bones and carcass)
1⁄2 ounce ginger, skin left on
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 pound boneless pork shoulder (one piece, ask your butcher to tie it, if needed)
3 quarts water 
1 scallion
1⁄2 small carrot (about 2 ounces)
 
Rinse the chicken bones well under cold running water. Crush the ginger by placing a kitchen knife over the ginger, and press down on the knife with your palm. Repeat for the garlic. Add all the ingredients to a large stockpot, and place on a burner over high heat. When the liquid boils, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered. Skim off any scum that accumulates on the surface and discard. Simmer for about 2 hours, until the soup reduces to 2 quarts. Remove the pork shoulder and set aside for chashu. (If you’re not using it right away, store it in the refrigerator.) Strain the soup through a cheesecloth-lined colander or fine-mesh sieve, discarding the remaining ingredients.

All-Chicken Variation Substitute 1 pound of boneless chicken for the pork shoulder (we prefer dark meat, but white meat is fine, too). Use this chicken for chashu in the recipes that follow.

Revue de presse

“This is the book on Japanese cooking I have been waiting for without knowing it! Tadashi and Harris have compiled a wonderful collection of recipes that veers sharply from the mysterious and lofty world of sushi and kaiseki and lands smack dab in the home kitchen, telling a great story of foreign culinary traditions colliding with traditional Japanese technique along the way.”
—Andy Ricker, chef-owner of Pok Pok

 “Sushi? Bah! Japanese food is so much more than raw fish, and this book is a joyful (and useful!) exploration of the earthy, fatty, meaty, rib-sticking, lip-smacking fare—the noodles and curries and deep-fried delights—that millions of Japanese depend on every day. I get hungry just thinking about it.”
—Matt Gross, editor, BonAppetit.com

“Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat bring to mouthwatering life a fascinating story: how Western influences opened up a nation’s taste buds and created a new Japanese cuisine of modern comfort food classics. Anyone obsessed with a steaming bowl of ramen, light-as-air tempura, or the perfect gyoza will find that there’s all that—and more—right here, just waiting to be cooked and devoured."
—Joe Yonan, author of Eat Your Vegetables and food and travel editor of the Washington Post

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Commentaires client les plus utiles
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Excellent livre pour la cuisine japonaise 25 août 2014
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
Recettes faciles à essayer chez soi et la plupart des sauces (curry, dashi, ...) sont présentée pour les réaliser à la maison donc pas besoin de se ruiner le portefeuille ou la santé avec des préparations instantanées.

Très bon livres pour les débutants en cuisine japonaise comme moi !
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5.0 étoiles sur 5 A wonderful cookbook ! 31 janvier 2014
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I had never ever cooked anything Japanese.
The first recipe I tried was absolutely delicious, simple, ans this is becoming my kitchen bible !
Many thanks to the authors
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Commentaires client les plus utiles sur Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com: 4.6 étoiles sur 5  68 commentaires
17 internautes sur 18 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 His most personable and approachable cookbook yet; a book with loads of possibilities! 30 décembre 2013
Par I Do The Speed Limit - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
I was a bit intimidated by his first book "Japanese Hot Pots", and less so by his second book "The Japanese Grill", but I did finally get a grip on both of them--and I enjoy using both those cookbooks. So, of course, this one drew my attention. The fact that I find this new "Soul Cooking" personable and approachable, may be because I have become comfortable with many Japanese terms and ingredients because I use his first two books frequently. But I really think it is because Tadashi Ono is a fun guy--and his personality comes shining through in this third book. I think he's finally come into his "own": His own way of teaching, writing and doing.

I think he's always been aware of how the Western world influenced Japanese cuisine and culture , from the mid 1800's when foreigners began arriving in Japan, to during and after World War II. But I also think he had to get real comfortable with his place in the scheme of things to write about it. You know, you can't really talk about "soul" and "comfort" until you have a firm handle on what surrounds it. Well, Tadashi has ID'd it beautifully in this book: The book itself is fun and somewhat of a history lesson; the recipes are do-able and they appeal to a "Western" taste, (after all, the dishes were influenced by Western tastes); you can find the ingredients (fairly easily, or with internet help), and the recipes are not complicated.

In many cases, you can take short-cuts and buy the condiments needed to pull the dish together, or you can take the advice of Tadashi and make your own with the recipes he has provided. I'm not saying that I will use all the chapters in this book, because I don't do much tempura or other fried foods--my kitchen exhaust system is just not set up for it. But there is some much more in this book that I highly recommend it, both as a great compilation of recipes and as a significant and fascinating history lesson, complete with great pictures.

Each chapter focuses on a different dish. You learn how it began (usually as a restaurant offering), then how it grew to become popular in home kitchens. Tadashi takes apart each dish (like tempura, ramen, curry, gyoza, etc.), explains how it came to be, then helps you create it from scratch. He provides all kinds of variations. If you follow through each chapter carefully, by the end of the chapter, you should have a firm handle on how to make it--that is how well Tadashi teaches. As you proceed through the chapters, you will also find recipes for the sauces and condiments necessary to complete the dish.

YOU CAN STOP READING HERE, as I think I've conveyed the fact that this book warrants a five-star rating, but I include more info below in case you are still undecided about the book:

To help you with some possibly unfamiliar terms: Most of us know ramen, curry, tempura, soba and udon, and I won't describe those chapters further. But let me try to describe some of the other chapters:
--Gyoza are dumplings and you will learn to make several varieties and to cook them by in an easy frying and steaming process. In this chapter you will also find a miso dipping sauce and rayu, a flavored chili oil. You will learn how to freeze them and use them in soup.
--The curry chapter is loaded with recipes and contains one called "Battleship Curry" that was served to servicemen on board ship.
--Tonkatsu is a deep-fried panko crusted cutlet or ground meat patty.
--Furai and Korokke: Furai is deep-fried panko seafood and veggies, and Korokke is a deep-fried "croquette" of chopped up meat, seafood or veggies. This chapter also contains all the sauces to go with these fried foods.
--Kara-age is a deep-fry technique imported from China. It differs from tempura in that the food is dredged in flour or potato starch, not the light batter of tempura.
--Okonomiyaki: Now we're talkin'! These are pancakes, and I'm really happy to have this chapter firmly in hand and under control and in my repertoire. These pancakes are both light-weight (in their "base" of flour/dashi/cabbage, etc.) and heavy-weight in all the toppings. They are accomplished on a griddle or in a heavy fry pan. (They are a lot of fun!) Yakisoba are included in this chapter. They have a base of ramen noodles.
--Donburi: Tadashi calls donburi the "ultimate dish for busy people". It is a one-bowl dish of almost any kind of ingredient heaped on a big bowl of rice and served with miso soup and pickles. A trip through this chapter will leave your mind churning with possibilities.
--Itame and Chahan: Itame means stir-fried or sauteed. Chahan is fried rice, Japanese-style.
--Yoshoku is Western-style cooking and the recipes in this chapter are Japanese takes on European and American dishes. You will find gratins, potato and macaroni salad, omelets, steak, hamburger, spaghetti and other pasta.

So, you can see there are plenty of chapters to spur your imagination. And it is truly interesting to see the Western influence. And one more tidbit of information: It may not matter to you, but it did to me: Joe Yonan, one of my favorite cookbook authors and the food and travel editor of Washington Post recommends this book on its back cover.
11 internautes sur 11 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
4.0 étoiles sur 5 Wonderfully presented guide and cookbook to 'real' Japanese cuisine 5 janvier 2014
Par Sibelius - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
Really liked this book for its atypical focus away from the more rarefied aspects of Japanese cuisines (eg - sushi, kaiseki, etc) and instead cataloging 'everyday' Japanese comfort cuisine, the dishes eaten by all strata of the populace from within the cozy confines of their homes to quick, no frills street eateries. If you've spent some time in Japan sampling such fare or have any shred of interest in better understanding the essence of real Japanese cuisine this book is certainly a fantastic starting guide for you.

Things I really liked:
+Comprehensive and well laid out catalog of Japanese comfort food categories ranging from Curry to Okonomiyaki and the little-known (outside of Japan) but essential aspects of 'Yoshoku' dishes.
+Recipes are very well presented with an average difficulty level (ranging from 1-5) at about '2.' Techniques are well explained and the only thing that will really hold back the average home cook is access to certain ingredients and first hand tasting knowledge to serve as your reference basis.
+Each of the 13 chapters is organized by specific food type. For example, Chapter 1 = 'Ramen.' Within each chapter is a nice scattering of anecdote and background information about the dishes. These elements were perhaps the most interesting and entertaining portions of the book.
+Whether or not you actually cook any of the recipes, merely by skimming through the book you'll gain a solid understanding of everyday Japanese meals and if you ever make it out there for a visit will have solid knowledge of what various restaurants serve and what people actually eat at home.
+Layouts and photographs are well done. Each page is very attractively designed.

Could've been better:
+While I enjoyed the quality of the photographs my chief complaint is that the book needs more. Approximately 30% of each recipe has an accompanying photograph - too low in my opinion.
17 internautes sur 20 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 All you could hope for. 8 novembre 2013
Par Bobba Fett - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Format Kindle|Achat vérifié
This book contains recipes for pretty much every Japanese food I have had and not been able to find a recipe for. The steps are easy, the ingredients are easy to find, and pictures are amazing. I could not have asked for anything more! Chicken Katsu here I come!
7 internautes sur 8 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Venturing outside of sushi and traditional japanese cuisine? Get this book! 27 décembre 2013
Par Alex Linde - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
Tadashi Ono and Hariss Salat strike again! I pre-ordered this cookbook based on the fact that every previous book by Hariss Salat was a gem! This one does not disappoint. Every recipe I've tried has turned out excellent. If you love Japanese cooking and would like to venture outside the tried and true sushi/sashimi or traditional japanese cooking, there is no better resource than Japanese Soul Cooking. The book covers all the best new age japanese food influenced by western culture.

The best recipes I've tried so far: Tan Tan Men (better than the restaurant version), Yoshoku Steak (probably the best new steak recipe I've tried in years), Ebi Pilaf (a japanese style pilaf; super simple and surprisingly delicious).
12 internautes sur 15 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
4.0 étoiles sur 5 Reviving old food memories 27 novembre 2013
Par Tadashi - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
I love the recipes that I grew up with but do not remember how to make. Many of the recipes are those that I ate at the street vendors or restaurants when I lived in Japan and were never able to find again. The step-by-step instructions and pictures will hopefully enable me to recreate these dishes.
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