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Mastering Fermentation: Recipes for Making and Cooking with Fermented Foods [Anglais] [Relié]

Mary Karlin

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Description de l'ouvrage

27 août 2013
A beautifully illustrated and authoritative guide to the art and science of fermented foods, featuring 70+ recipes that progress from simple fermented condiments like vinegars and mustards to more advanced techniques for using wild yeast, fermenting meats, and curing fish.

     Although fermentation has an ancient history, fermented foods are currently experiencing a renaissance: kombucha, kefir, sauerkraut, and other potent fermentables appeal not only for their health benefits, but also because they are fun, adventurous DIY projects for home cooks of every level. Mastering Fermentation is a beautifully illustrated and authoritative guide to the art and science of fermented foods, featuring more than seventy recipes that allow you to progress from simple fermented condiments like vinegars and mustards to more advanced techniques for using wild yeast starters, fermenting meats, and curing fish.

Cooking instructor and author Mary Karlin begins with a solid introduction to the wide world of fermentation, explaining essential equipment, ingredients, processes, and techniques. The diverse chapters cover everything from fermented dairy to grains and breads; legumes, nuts, and aromatics; and fermented beverages. Last but not least, the book concludes with more than twenty globally-inspired recipes that incorporate fermented foods into enticing finished dishes like Grilled Lamb Stuffed with Apricot-Date Chutney and Saffron Yogurt Sauce. Offering an accessible, recipe-driven approach, Mastering Fermentation will inspire and equip you to facilitate the transformative, fascinating process of fermentation, with delicious results. 

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Extrait

Introduction

Sourdough bread, cheese, yogurt, beer, wine, sauerkraut, kimchi, sweet chile sauce, soy sauce, pickles, and even chocolate are just a few of the fermented foods that are part of our everyday diets. In the United States, we love a wide variety of savory and sweet ferments that many of us probably don’t even realize are fermented.

Have you ever noticed that many cuisines serve fermented foods with their meals? In Asian cuisine, it’s a small dish of pickled vegetables or spicy kimchi; in Indian cuisine, a fabulous chutney or lentil dosa; in the Mediterranean, an aromatic herbal beverage after the meal. Yes, these fermented foods and beverages are delectable players in the overall dance of flavors, textures, and tastes of a meal, but just as important as their flavor, ferments play a valuable role in the digestion of the meal and subsequent health of our digestive system. Fermentation makes those foods more digestible and therefore more nutritious. It’s a bonus that fermented foods also taste great.

In many supermarkets today, overprocessed versions have replaced many foods that were traditionally fermented: processed cheese has taken the place of farmhouse Cheddar, pasteurized beers that all taste alike have overtaken regional ales and lagers, preservative-laden bread has replaced homemade loaves made with natural starters. The abundance of these foods throughout our food system makes us believe that these processed versions are safer and healthier for us. But they are not. Many ready-made foods have been robbed of many of their naturally occurring beneficial microorganisms by pasteurization and some extreme high-temperature food-safety processes such as ultra-pasteurization. Not all bacteria are bad for us. The presence of certain bacteria is essential to good health. It is important to our overall health that we get back to the practice of having real fermented foods as key elements of our diets. This is not a fad but a trend back to foods that are good for us, many of which we can make ourselves. Once you’ve tasted real fermented foods, you’ll want to stick to them, if only because they simply taste better.

            So why do fermented foods taste so good? Fermentation promotes the growth of desirable bacteria, molds, and yeasts in foods, either food-borne or through the introduction of various “starters” to create an enzymatic action that transforms the food into an elevated state of flavor and nutritive value. Acidified milk turns into creamy cheese, hard barley kernels mellow into refreshing beer, simple cabbage turns into sauerkraut.

While on this unpredictable fermentation path, you’ll discover numerous unexpected gifts that the foods give you. You may start out to ferment one specific food, and in the process of doing so, be given the bonus of one or more beneficial by-products, what I call “many from one.” As an example, you may start out to make a fruit vinegar or shrub and find that you have a delicious pulp by-product to turn into a marinade or use to flavor yogurt. That vinegar can become a tasty salad dressing or even flavor a carbonated beverage.

            In Mastering Fermentation, I present a contemporary approach to fermenting popular, useful foods any cook would want in their pantry, as well as extensive tips and recipes for using these fermented foods. I’ll share with you the many ways you can make delicious world-class ferments at home using safe, contemporary methods of fermentation and how to easily incorporate them into your cooking repertoire. You can’t rush fermentation nor can you wield total control over it, but with proper guidance and encouragement, you can achieve a high level of success.
In addition to recipes for creating more than seventy fermented favorites are twenty-two globally inspired contemporary recipes featuring those fermented foods in chapter 9. Once you’ve got a pantry (or refrigerator) bursting with flavorful ferments, it’s time to put them to good use.

I invite you to join me on this adventure into the intriguing world of fermentation. Together we’ll explore some popular categories of cultured dairy and cheese, fermented fruits and vegetables, sourdough breads and sprouted grains, cured meats and fish, legumes and nuts, and of course fermented beverages. Beyond the pages of this book, you’ll find a companion website—www.masteringfermentation.com—full of additional recipes, tips, charts, and Q & A sections designed to keep information current. It’s also a way for us to keep in touch. Let’s get fermenting!
 
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Basic Dijon-Style Mustard

Yield: About 11⁄2 cups
Start to Finish: 10 minutes to make + 3 days fermenting + 3 days refrigeration
3⁄4 cup mustard powder (milder Brassica powder preferable)
1 teaspoon unrefined fine sea salt
1⁄8 teaspoon garlic powder
2 teaspoons raw, unfiltered honey
1⁄2 cup filtered water
1 tablespoon basic whey (see page 13) or vegetable brine from a fermented vegetable (such as sauerkraut)
2 tablespoons raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar

Whisk the mustard powder, salt, and garlic powder together in a bowl. Add the honey, then the water and brine, and whisk to combine. Place in a jar, cover tightly, and ferment at room temperature for 3 days. The mustard will thicken, so stir in more water or brine after 1 day to create a consistency you like. Transfer to refrigeration. Allow the ingredients to blend together for 3 days before using. Mustard will keep for up to 2 months in refrigeration. See photo on page 44.

Revue de presse

“Mary Karlin does a lot to render a topic that is beguiling but mysterious in a direct and straightforward way. Mastering Fermentation is full of recipes and ideas that are imminently doable and also delicious. Do try making your own cream cheese and you’ll know its goodness!”
—DEBORAH MADISON, author of Vegetable Literacy and Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
 
 
“Mary Karlin has done it again, getting me all excited about the passions we share, as she previously did with cheese making and wood-fired cooking. But this time it’s for the whole magical category of fermentation, and she goes both broad and deep. I could not put this book down, and now
I simply want to make everything
in it.”
—PETER REINHART, author of The Joy of Gluten-Free, Sugar-Free Baking and Artisan Breads Every Day
 
 
“If cooking is an art, and baking a science, then fermentation must be akin to magic. Ordinary foods—vegetables, milk, juice, tomatoes, tea—are transformed by it into the most extraordinary pickles, cheeses, vinegars, ketchups, and kombuchas. But, as with all magic, it’s important to stay on the side of light and goodness. Mary Karlin is the sorceress and this is her book of culinary spells.”
—KIRI FISHER, owner of The Cheese School of San Francisco  

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Amazon.com: 4.3 étoiles sur 5  15 commentaires
38 internautes sur 39 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 A fantastic book with surprising flavors 1 septembre 2013
Par lamia - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat authentifié par Amazon
I have gotten into fermenting foods somewhat recently, making sauerkrauts, pickling corn, okra, eggplant, hot sauces, etc. I saw this book referenced in a magazine, and decided to purchase it despite its having no reviews at that time.

I am glad I did. It is now one of the books I would want to save if my house catches fire. There are several of those, but this is near the top of the list.

I don't follow recipes; instead, I follow ideas. This book is full of wonderful ideas. I used ideas from her hot sauce recipes and her mustard recipes to make a wonderful habanero mustard. I can't wait to try others, such as bran-fermented vegetables. I'm going to have to work up to some, such as corned beef that sits at room temp for 24 hours. Every page I turn to has a nice idea to try.

The only negative I see in the book is that it really needs to be a companion book to, say, Wild Fermentation or The Art of Fermentation. Those books explain why fermentation is neither entirely predictable nor exactly repeatable, and gives mileposts and signs for judging when a fermentation is going right or astray. And also that the final product can depend on personal preference. This book, to me, gives the impression that one should follow a very precise regiment, and is less informative about how individual conditions (or preferences!) might require adjustments. Likewise, some ingredients and steps are called for, such as adding whey or blanching, and it is sometimes not clear why. I understand what these do, but the description does not say whether something special to the ingredients/procedure makes them necessary (for safety) or if they are conveniences and optional.

I think this is a fantastic book and it goes beyond what I have seen elsewhere. My personal negatives are trivial in comparison to what the author has accomplished
22 internautes sur 25 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
1.0 étoiles sur 5 I don't recommend. 10 janvier 2014
Par dadonabike - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
It does have great photos and some interesting ideas, but as an avid home brewer, fermenter and chef I would not recommend this book for beginners.
I have never made cheese so I can't speak on those recipes and the sourdoughs do seem sound.
Many of the veg and fruit recipes are not fermented, they are not left long enough and do not have good descriptions on what to look for or how to gage the fermentation.
The soy and beer recipes are not good. Some will work and some won't. I'd recommend The book of tofu, The book of miso, Wild Fermentation and How to Brew to those interested.

1/15/14
I kept this book for a few more day to review further. I now think this book is actually dangerous! there are a few recipes using cornmeal that recommend using pickling lime water to make the product. That is dangerous. Lime is used to make nixtamal (masa) but that lime is washed away with many changes of water. Lime is very alkaline and dangerous, when you get it on your skin you can feel if breaking down the top layers. The trace that is found in tortillas won't hurt you and does have many benefits. Wood ash was the traditional alkali used in nixtamal but the process takes longer.

Having read the sourdough recipes more carefully: I would think that if you take the time to make a sourdough you want to learn how to use it for leavening, the method for making a sourdough is sound but the recipes for sourdough pizza and bread use bakers yeast to leaven. Wild yeast can't compete with specific yeasts (bread, wine, beer, cider, mead), they are not as fast at feeding and die off. That is a benefit if you want a consistent product but not if you are truing to nurture wild yeasts. Sourdough baking is not as easy as using yeast, you have to be patient and wait for the yeast to do their job, there is no set time that a sourdough will work, you just have to learn how your sourdough works and be patient. To just add flavor, learn to make a polish (water, yeast and flour mixed hours before).
8 internautes sur 9 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
4.0 étoiles sur 5 Better than expected 30 septembre 2013
Par I. Darren - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
A curious title for a book that is full of recipes about a possibly unfamiliar way of food preparation. Certainly your eyes are drawn to this title as it peers out on the bookshelf!

So what do you get? Over 70 recipes and a good introduction to the "art and science" of fermented foods. Still none the wiser? How about making your own vinegar and mustard or possibly curing fish and producing cheese. This is possibly one of those subjects that you haven't given much thought about and probably wouldn't have ordinarily picked up a book about either. That could be a mistake. There is truly another world potentially at your fingertips.

A comprehensive introduction notes that fermentation is one of the oldest forms of preservation that, as the process is ongoing, transforms the chemical composition of food and helps enhance its flavour. Whether you choose to immerse yourself in the science behind the subject or jump straight to the recipes and "get doing things" it is up to you although it would be a bit of a shame to ignore the great subject overview and deeper details about this fascinating subject. Bizarrely, whilst this reviewer does not think that he has the free time to be an "active fermenter", it was a sheer pleasure to read through this book, consider the various recipes, examine how they are made and to wish for a bit more free time.

Sure, some of the recipes might seem or sound simple, such as tomato ketchup, but as the old idiom says, the proof of the pudding is in the eating and one cannot compare a chemically-enhanced commercial product to a real handmade effort, boosted with red pepper flakes or cayenne pepper, all made in your own kitchen. Many of the recipes are for more involved dishes but to this reader's mind, some of the greatest little discoveries were the "simple things" such as different vinegars, mustards and chutneys that can be combined into so many different dishes.

Nothing seems left to chance and the reader is given careful, clear guidance throughout this book just like a kindly uncle might explain something to a child, yet one absolutely does not feel patronised along the way. Information is presented in a clear, matter-of-fact way and it is only after-the-event that one possibly begins to appreciate just how much knowledge has been ingested. There are many fine photographs to help focus your attention but sadly not every recipe is given its own picture and that is a shame in a book of this kind. Kudos must be given for each recipe having a clear estimation of time needed for each "stage" of production but a small black mark must be given for the use of sole U.S. imperial measures - referring to a conversion table at the end of the book is not enough.

The book is rounded off by a detailed glossary, resource list, bibliography and an index, although the latter was not present with this review copy but if it is as detailed as everything else in this book there will be nothing to worry about. This is one of those books that you might not necessarily need but it is something that you should strongly consider if you enjoy cooking or care about what you eat. This could be one of those great little surprises you never thought you'd want and enjoy!
7 internautes sur 9 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Great Book Highly Recommend-FIVE STARS 30 août 2013
Par C. Frey - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Format Kindle
This book is really PACKED with information and awesome recipes. The Coconut Yogurt recipe was absolutely the best!!!!

There is more information/recipes: sour dough, curing meat, kimchi, kombucha, saurakraut, beer, ginger beer, root beer, sprouting, making a variety of cheese, soy sauce, kefir, breads, pickling vegetables and more......

Get the book, I know you will not be sorry
4 internautes sur 5 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Fantastic, Informative Book 15 octobre 2013
Par Suzy F - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat authentifié par Amazon
I am fairly new to the world of fermentation and find the author's well researched background and detailed explanations extremely useful and informative. The recipes I have tried so far are delicious. One thing I really appreciate is that the recipe yields are managable--the Apricot-Date Chutney recipe yields two cups rather than the twelve cups or more that comparable recipes in other books I have produce. Whether you are new to fermentation or are a seasoned veteran, this book has something for you.
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