Momofuku Milk Bar (Anglais) Relié – 25 octobre 2011
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“Chocolate-chocolate cookies, compost cookies, blueberries and cream cookies, banana cream pie, brownie pie, hot fudge sauce, chocolate cake. I can't stop baking from Momofuku Milk Bar…A crowd pleaser, obviously.”
—Los Angeles Times
"Whimsical desserts-from Compost Cookie to Crack Pie - by Manhattan pastry pro Christina Tosi create a 256-page Wonka World."
“It took just one recipe to fall in love with this book”
Présentation de l'éditeur
A runaway success, the Momofuku cookbook suffered from just one criticism among reviewers and fans: where were Christina Tosi’s fantastic desserts? The compost cookie, a chunky chocolate-chip cookie studded with crunchy salty pretzels and coffee grounds; the crack pie, a sugary-buttery confection as craveable as the name implies; the cereal milk ice cream, made from everyone’s favorite part of a nutritious breakfast—the milk at the bottom of a bowl of cereal; the easy layer cakes that forgo fancy frosting in favor of unfinished edges that hint at the yumminess inside.
Momofuku Milk Bar finally shares the recipes for these now-legendary riffs on childhood flavors and down-home classics—all essentially derived from ten mother recipes—along with the compelling narrative of the unlikely beginnings of this quirky bakery’s success. It all started one day when Momofuku founder David Chang asked Christina to make a dessert for dinner that night. Just like that, the pastry program at Momofuku began, and Christina’s playful desserts helped the restaurants earn praise from the New York Times and the Michelin Guide and led to the opening of Milk Bar, which now draws fans from around the country and the world.
With all the recipes for the bakery’s most beloved desserts—along with ones for savory baked goods that take a page from Chang’s Asian-flavored cuisine, such as Kimchi Croissants with Blue Cheese—and 100 color photographs, Momofuku Milk Bar makes baking irresistible off-beat treats at home both foolproof and fun.
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I could not wait to try the corn cookies especially. It took me a week or so to get in the Just Corn that I needed. In the meantime, I started with the cornflake marshmallow cookies. The first six I baked off were overbaked. I was expecting them to take about 18 minutes, like the book said, but I ended up pulling them at 15. The next batch got removed at 12 minutes. I think I could have gone 11. I know they were the right size because I had the right quantity. My one heads up about this book is that the baking times for the cookies seems really off to me. Luckily I bake a lot, so I know what a cookie should look like when it is done. The middle should look completely unbaked while the edges are lightly browned. They continue to bake quite a bit after they come out. The center will be fully baked by the time they cool. I was able to adjust quickly. For cookies this size I think the baking time should be about 11-12 minutes.
I have made: chocolate marshmallow cookies, corn cookies, confetti cookies, candy bar pie, crack pies (one with pecans!), and the compost cookies so far. Every one has had a much deeper depth of flavor than ordinary baked goods. I believe she is right when she says that milk powder is the msg of the baking world. It does seem to make everything taste better.
The crack pie recipe in the book is different and far superior to previously published versions. This pie is truly incredible, and my family prefers the pecan variation. The corn cookie was worth tracking down the Just Corn. My husband said they reminded him of his favorite childhood cereal, King Vitamin. We loved this cookie!
I currently have passion fruit puree and a cake ring on order from Amazon. I cannot wait to try the cakes and the grapefruit pie.
I highly recommend this book if you like a bit of a challenge in the kitchen. You really want to track down the right equipment and ingredients to do these recipes justice! It is well worth the effort.
If your goal is the compost cookies, once again...google...Regis and Kelly or numerous food blogs.
This book for me was three stars--because it's not usable by the average baker. But I added another star for inspiration--as it did inspire me to change my cookie repertoire--as well as the microwave brown butter recipe (see below)). But you know what? I don't use Christina's recipes. I use the standard Toll House cookie recipe and then Milkbarify them.... adding marshmallows, corn flakes (toast before for added flavor, just like nuts), and mini chocolate chips.... or composting them with whatever I can find...pretzels, potato chips, mini chocolate chips, Oreos, etc. I might add in 2 spoonfulls of dry milk powder, but only if I have it. I chill the dough for at least an hour before baking--but that's it. So for that, it's helped. I highly recommend taking this book out of the library before purchasing...or at least checking it out in a Bricks-and-Mortar bookstore (if you still have one in your town. ;))
I didn't expect the recipes to be so time consuming or require so many special ingredients--as I bake pretty much every day. To make almost anything in this book, you're going to need to invest in Caullet Glucose Syrup - 2.2 lb. She says you can use half the amount of corn syrup, but it won't be the same.
You'll also need Just Tomatoes Just Corn, 8-Ounce Large Pouch (Pack of 3) to make crack pie or many of the cookie recipes.
Clear Cake Collars or acetate sheets are required for most cakes.
And of course, as the name implies, you're going to need Carnation Instant Nonfat Dry Milk , 5 - 3.2 oz Pouches....which Christina uses in nearly every recipe (she refers to it as the MSG of the pastry world.)
You should also have a stand mixer as well as Dutch cocoa powder like Frontier Cocoa Powder, Dutch-process Certified Organic, Fair Trade Certified, 16-Ounce Bag.
She mentions reworking her ice cream recipes so that they could be made in a home ice cream maker. I wish she had reworked her recipes to work a bit better in the home kitchen. The LA Times was able to do it for the crack pie... why didn't Christina do it for all (at least most) of the recipes??? As it stands now, I'm betting that many people will not be willing to invest in so many special ingredients to make a few treats.
The book has a great mother dough recipe for breads and croissants--so it's not all super sweet (which was a nice surprise). There are recipes for making your own infused milks (cereal milk), different brittles, etc. Yet, still, so many are all about special ingredients. It is a great read--and I really enjoyed that. She definitely shares a lot of great advice, and if you're becoming more serious about your baking or considering pastry school, then definitely pick it up.
One added bonus was how to make Brown Butter in the Microwave!! (Yippee!!) Put your butter in a pyrex bowl, cover it with a microwave safe plate, and nuke it for 3-5 minutes. Easy peasy. Then stir.
If you're looking for more of a home-baker accessible cookbook then I recommend Baked: New Frontiers in Baking and Baking: From My Home to Yours.
Momofuku Milk Bar's fame, although relatively new, is well deserved. The story is legendary - David Chang was serving Hershey Kisses as dessert for his restaurants, and on leave from wd-50, Christina Tosi arrived to assist in dealing with the New York restaurant inspectors. A quick consult turned into a full-time job based on junk food turned nostalgia pastry. Many terms have been used to describe her creations including the New York Times' "a time capsule of arrested adolescence, an homage to American processed food," but I prefer to think of them as "gussied up stuff my mom used to make."
Momofuku Milk Bar Cookbook comes in at 256 pages with over 100 photographs. Pictures fill most pages and are sure to get your mouth watering although her desserts are not about fancy and frilly, and so they aren't necessarily the most photogenic. The book also contains sections on her preferred ingredients, equipment and techniques. What is most exciting about this book is that Tosi gives us much of her menu, and explains how the menu evolved in those early years.
The evolution of her menu makes sense. Chefs don't have much time so they need to create a handful of knock-out base recipes that can be spun into a number of other recipes. And for this reason alone, Milk Bar is a good read for any aspiring chef or prolific bake sale maven. The book centers around ten such bases - cereal milks, crumb, crunch, graham crust, fudge sauce, liquid cheesecake, nut brittle, nut crunch, ganache and mother dough - which she spins into more savory applications. And then each of those bases is used in cookies, cakes, pies and other sweets. Recipes are written clearly and ingredients are presented in grams and standard measures.
In reviewing cookbooks my pastry staff and I prepare a number of the recipes to check for flavor and success. Our response (and the response of our customers) was universal - too sweet and inconsistent outcomes. We started at the Compost Cookies and worked our way through the cornflake-chocolate-chip-marshmallow cookies, carrot layer cake, cinnamon bun pie, candy bar pie, and finally finished with the Crack Pie. Even my sugar loving pastry team was left setting the fork down to grab a cup of water. Aside from the sweetness, some of the recipes didn't have the final finished appearance that was worthy of a restaurant let alone a bake sale. But is that enough to disregard this book?
I found the narrative sections to be an enthralling and fun romp. I cook in a small rural community and while reading Tosi's accounts I felt like I was in New York. I could smell the crowded, hot kitchens. I could see her running down the street to the market to buy chips. I could feel the camaraderie of her staff. Tosi has a wonderful gift in being able to capture the passion of her kitchen and sharing it with the reader. Her recipes are fun and doable for all levels of cooks. For those who wake up to Cap'n Crunch (even in their 30s and 40s), her recipes will be cherished.
I can make your decision fairly simple. When you're done eating your cereal, do you pick up the bowl and drink the milk because you like the flavor of the cereal milk? Do you ever find yourself dumping all of your leftover junk food in a bowl and pouring chocolate sauce on top for a late afternoon snack? If you do these things then you'll love this book. If not, take a glance at it for a quick afternoon read and then share it with your sugar-loving neighbor.
I thought that I liked baking. I had no idea how far from "like" I was. Compared to what I do now, I was just going through the motions.
I have had this book for less than two months, but already it has changed my approach to and my enjoyment of baking. It will be a longstanding staple in my kitchen/life.
I received this book as a gift. I'd never heard of it. At first glance, the photos are beautiful, but there is a lot of reading, as far as cookbooks go. And, upon further inspection, the recipes looked complicated and intimidating. They are recipes within recipes. But, having heard of Momofuku, the Milk Bar is their bakery, I was intrigued.
The first thing I did, which is out of character for me and a cookbook, is read it from cover to cover. I was in love with the narrative. And reading through it piqued my interest, revved up my courage and helped me to understand the recipes and the process of baking. I was inspired!
There are some unusual ingredients in the book. The author is a big proponent of Amazon for sourcing things like glucose and freeze-dried corn, if you can't find them locally. Instead of making an investment in a yet-to-be-proven-in-my-kitchen-cookbook, I chose a recipe that needed nothing particularly special: Cornflake Chocolate Chip Marshmallow Cookies. I was not particularly sold on that combination of ingredients, but went ahead with it, anyway. It was from that point on that I was a shameless devotee. I haven't picked up another cookbook in weeks!
The beauty of this book, is her approach. It is broken down into techniques which all integrate to create other complete recipes. For example, Cornflake Crunch goes into the Cornflake Chocolate Chip Marshmallow Cookies. The Mother Dough can be fashioned into Volcanoes, Brioche or Croissants, Cereal Milk into Cereal Milk ice cream. And the cakes! Four recipes in one, at times! Also included are nut brittles, pies, liquid cheesecake, ganache, fudge sauce and other things that I didn't even know existed, let alone that I wanted to bake! Some have thier own dedicated chapters. Others are within chapters.
There is an introduction detailing some of the author's history, a section on success in the kitchen and using the book. She writes , in detail, about ingredients and technique. The writing is friendly and direct, but not overwhelming in length. And the reading of the narratives feels, not like a chore, but a gift of insight and glimpses of motivation.
It turns out, I LOVE BAKING. This book has inspired me to try my own ideas when I don't have all the pieces for one of hers. I have baked things I'd never have even considered before this book, stuffed croissants and black bepper brioche to name two. And shortly after trying her recipes, and having read through her narrative, I began improvising on the recipes she had provided. I have actually gained confidence and inspiration as a baker after having read through the book and having tried some of the recipes.
Initially, I wasn't sure that this was a book I'd recommend because of the commitment required to complete a single recipe. Then, I thought that I couldn't recommend it out of the greed of wanting to be the most creative baker at work. But now, for anyone who thinks they love baking, want to love baking more or want to be re-seduced by the call of the items in the pantry, I wouldn't dream of keeping this a secret! ( And, much to the dismay of my ego, having returned to work each Monday with a new story from the trenches of baking love, I get the feeling that, at least one of my co-workers will be shamelessly slaving away to the call of the Momofuku Milk Bakery Cookbook.)
It is very important, however, that you read through the section where Tosi describes the ingredients and the techniques. I am guessing that most people who have had problems with the recipes did not do this. I made several batches of cookies before I realized what she calls "flour" is actually BREAD flour. The cookies with regular flour still turned out great, but they were very thin and crunchy. This did not stop a single person from going to town on them though.
Then I started using bread flour and everything came together. The cookies do not spread like crazy, they are crisped on the outside but chewy and soft in the middle.
So read about the ingredients so you can get the best results!!
I really do love this cookbook. The recipes are great but I also just love reading the stories and commentary. Some of the recipes call for some unique ingredients and have *a lot* of steps, but it's all pretty easy if you can plan everything out. For example, I start making the crack pie 2 days before I want it. I will make the oat cookie for the crust on day 1, finish making the pie and put it into the freezer on day 2, and then serve it on day 3. And it is SOOO worth it.