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Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion (Anglais) Broché – 27 août 2013


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104 internautes sur 111 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Think before you buy! 14 juin 2012
Par BLehner - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
A century ago people usually had only a handful of garments in their wardrobe. Carefully mended, and handed down, these clothes were never disposed of before literally being worn out. Today the average US citizen buys 65 new pieces of clothing each year. Typically not meant to last, these items will rather be thrown away than repaired or altered, because this would ironically enough be more expensive than buying new ones.
On this premise Elizabeth Cline sets out to explore cheap fashion in her book Overdressed. Revealing the effects of cheap fashion on her own life, her research takes her to the reasons of this development and a possible future in slow (aka local and sustainable) fashion. Both conversationally written and thought-provoking this is a must-read for everyone who's interested in the economics behind the circle of shopping and clothes production.
I have read many books on the topic but this is the first that addresses one particular point which I feel is shockingly obvious yet often ignored. Fast fashion is not only cheap, it is, basically, waste. You might be all for recycling plastic, but have you ever thought about what's in your wardrobe and the implications for the environment? With fashion being cheap, and quality just "good enough", we create a staggering amount of pretty colored polyester garbage. Think about this before homing in on the next bargain you see!
In short: An eye-opening read that will hopefully make you reconsider your buying decisions!

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received this book free from the publisher through the NetGalley book review program. I was not required to write a positive review. The opinions I have expressed are my own.
114 internautes sur 123 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
read along with "Supersize Me" 19 juin 2012
Par A. Whitacre - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I had the same sense of revulsion reading this book as I did reading "Supersize Me" (which is more or less the food version of this book) and I see fast food and "fast fashion" as indicative of the same lack of basic skills. We don't typically cook -- and therefore don't recognize quality in food. Few people sew anymore, and therefore don't recognize quality in clothing. The high cost of housing means that cost becomes more important both for food and clothing -- and quality suffers. The manufacturing chain makes adjustments to accommodate the desire for more of everything. And then follow the TV shows: Biggest Loser for the food problem; and Hoarders for the clothing (and everything else) problem.
Oddly enough, the bad construction of cheap clothes puts consumers into the endless cycle of buying more of everything. If you can't fix your shoes or alter your clothes, then you need multiples of everything just to make sure something lasts through the season. Expectations of grooming and dress have become demanding, which means that there is more acceptance of cheap clothing. 60 years ago when every working woman wore a suit every day to work, her entire wardrobe was different. She didn't have 22 tops and 14 skirts -- she had five suits. And yet we see the connection between clothing and our behavior-- schools that expect specific behaviors usually have specific dress codes. (the author of Supersize Me also comments on how fast food -- and eating in your car -- disrupted the idea of set meal times. )
I am old enough to remember the grand department stores in big cities -- and the expectations both of dress and behavior that accompanied them. The author does not make the connection between larger houses (and greater house payments as proportion of income) and the growth of the shopping mall. Those grand department stores didn't need parking lots -- people took transit and had their purchases delivered by delivery truck (not FedEx). They shopped during the day, not on the way home from work at 8 pm. Our whole society has changed and the way we relate to food and clothing has followed.
This may be one of the first things I've seen that puts a "sustainable, green" cast on clothing consumption though. its ironic that Whole Foods sells cheap -- although organic and fair-traded -- teeshirts in the toiletries aisle. And those items are always manufactured overseas.
45 internautes sur 46 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Long on problem-short on solutions 12 septembre 2012
Par Amanda Rudelt - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle
I do recommend this book to anyone whose closet takes up a whole bedroom and is full of things you got as a steal but never wear. I recommend this book to anyone who takes frequent hauls of last season's clothes to Goodwill thinking they are doing something grandly generous. I recommend this to anyone who remembers going to the high end section of the department store and finding amazing details and fine finishing of garments-remember French seams?- and wonders why you can't seem to find them at any price now.

I bought this because I am well aware that something is wrong with clothing currently. I grew up as a home sewer and in the last 10 years I have done less and less as finished garments were getting cheaper than then fabric needed to make them. A simple sheath dress takes about 2 hours to make and about 2 yard of outer fabric, not to mention interfacing and notions. To think that these fast fashion stores could sell this dress and far more complex things for under $40 tells me a lot of people are getting screwed. I wanted to know how many, but also what I as a consumer can do about. Sadly, this book is a little thin on solutions. It doesn't give much help on how to source fairly made clothing. How to source fairly made, high quality, environmentally sound clothing is really what I was looking for. On the other hand it did remind me of the value of home sewing. Fast fashion is like fast food-it is good enough and is set up to crate cravings, but clothing, like good food, nourishes the spirit. You may need to work harder for it but it is so much more rewarding.
371 internautes sur 415 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
The shockingly high cost of cheap editing 29 juin 2012
Par Nancy - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I'm very interested in the subject of fast fashion, and I'm pretty sure the author did her research. (There are 11 pages of endnotes.) But "Overdressed" is so poorly written and edited (or unedited) that I stopped reading after three chapters. Some of the more glaring errors: "rarified" for "rarefied," "principal" for "principle," "hoards" for "hordes," "reigns" for "reins," "lose" for "loose," and "$150 dollars." There are comma errors, syntax errors, subject-verb agreement errors, verb-tense errors, and capitalization errors. Concepts that require clarification are unexplained (Black Friday, "when France was occupied").

And that's just the first 94 pages.

Nitpicking? Not really. "Overdressed" isn't a hastily written blog post; it's a book from a respected publisher. The sloppiness of the editing doesn't merely make for a painful reading experience; it also impairs the author's credibility and makes me wonder about the accuracy of her facts. Which is a shame, because this is a subject crying out for thorough and expert reporting.
13 internautes sur 13 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Engaging but poorly edited with unnecessary side story 4 novembre 2012
Par Underground Crafter - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle
In mid-September, I came across a thread in the Designers group on Ravelry discussing this book. I became very intrigued, and requested a review copy from NetGalley.

I read the book slowly, over the course of a rather busy month, and while I have already recommended it to several people, I found it a very difficult book to review. I think this is because Overdressed is really several books inside of one jacket (or, in my case, inside one Kindle e-book).

I loved the book that felt like it was written by an investigative journalist exploring the ins and outs of fast fashion. I learned a lot about the history of the fashion industry and how it moved from seasonal cycles to fast fashion cycles. The explorations of the labor, environmental, economic, and social aspects of fast fashion were interesting and thought provoking, and I've already had conversations with several friends and family about the contents. I also appreciated the conversation about DIY and upcycled fashion and the introduction to many bloggers, designers, and store owners involved in the "slow fashion" movement. I would give that book 5 stars and recommend it far and wide.

There's another side of the book which is about Elizabeth's personal exploration through this world. I'm not sure if it was because I couldn't relate to her experiences of binge shopping or because my inner-women's-college-alumna was alarmed by her seemingly ignorant approach to many encounters, but I was not at all pulled in by these stories. On occasion, it seems like Elizabeth is "playing dumb" to reach a broader audience. (Could the same woman who thoroughly researched the history of a multi-national industry really have thought she could easily travel to various locations in China when she doesn't speak a word of Chinese without a car or a guide until someone suggested she needed a driver?) I felt as though she tried to combine a book that appealed to readers of serious non-fiction with one aimed at shopaholics and folks looking for something "lighter" to read. Personally, I found the switch back and forth a bit disjointed, although perhaps it will bring in readers who aren't already comfortable with critiquing the industry.

And then, there was the editing and formatting. There were many instances of words running together without spaces in between (looking something like this: wordsrunningtogetherwithoutspacesinbetween) and there were noticeable editing mistakes. I have not previously had that experience with any book published by a major publisher (in this case, Penguin's Portfolio imprint). I was always able to infer what Elizabeth was trying to convey, but I found this aspect of the book unsettling. It felt a bit like "fast publishing" to me.

Back to my original quandary: How do I review this book? I think the content is important and it is mostly an engaging and well-researched book. I can't in good conscience give it a 5 star review, though. If my review were based purely on editing and formatting, I would probably have to give it 2 stars. If I were rating the "Elizabeth's personal conversion to slow fashionista" sub-plot, I would probably give the book 3 stars. So I guess in the end, I will give it 4 stars but with this warning - I recommend that you read Overdressed, think about it's content, and talk about it. But be prepared for poor editing and formatting, and to be slightly urked by some of Elizabeth's purported ignorance.

Full disclosure: A free review copy of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion was provided by Portfolio/Penguin via NetGalley. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.
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