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Paletas: Authentic Recipes for Mexican Ice Pops, Shaved Ice & Aguas Frescas (Anglais) Relié – 7 juin 2011


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INTRODUCTION
 
The first frozen treats in Mexico were made with snow collected at the top of the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes. At first, the snow was carried down and used to refrigerate things like medicine and food, but later people realized they could pair the snow with sweet fruits to make luxurious frozen treats.
 
The enjoyment of frozen treats is something almost universal. They’re beloved all over the world, especially by children. The fact that they’re so widespread is quite remarkable when you consider the great variety in the different cultures and cuisines where they appear. Italians have their granitas and gelatos, Argentineans their helados, Indians their kulfi, and Japanese their mochi. And, yes, Mexicans have their paletas, which are savored throughout the country, all year round. Although paletas are the main focus of this book, I’ve also included recipes for two other types of refreshing Mexican treats: raspados, which are similar to granitas, and the beverages known as aguas frescas.
 
PALETAS 
 
Paleterías (paleta shops), with their bright awnings and storefronts, are part of the Mexican landscape, decorating the streets with their vivid colors. And like many other fortunate children in my home country, I grew up enjoying paletas on a regular basis.
 
Although paletas have become popular outside of Mexico, you may not be familiar with them, so let me tell you a bit about them. The word paleta derives from palo, meaning “stick,” a reference to how they’re made and eaten. They’re essentially ice pops: delicious flavored liquids, frozen with a stick to hold as you eat them. Paletas come in countless flavors and are made from an enormous variety of fruits, nuts, and other ingredients, including spices and even flowers. They’re most commonly made in a rectangle shape. Paletas may have a smooth consistency, but they often include chunks of some sort to provide texture and trap different flavors.
 
In Mexico, we have two different types of paletas. The most popular type is paletas de agua, which are typically made with fresh fruit, water, sweetener (usually sugar from sugarcane), and sometimes other flavorings. Popular flavors include lime, watermelon, tamarind, mango, chile, and coconut.
 
The second type is paletas de leche or paletas de crema, which are made with some kind of dairy (usually whole milk or heavy cream) and flavorings or fruit. Sadly, these days most commercial paletas de leche are made with a powdered base due to the price of milk, but those that are still made with fresh milk or cream are incredibly delicious. They’re like ice cream on a stick, often studded with delicious fresh fruit, but also combined with other ingredients, such as pecans, chocolate, cajeta (goat’s milk caramel), rompope (similar to eggnog), and rice.
 
Although there are many flavors of paletas, the most common varieties have one main flavor. That’s probably because the majority are made with fresh fruit, which is great on its own. When other flavors and ingredients are added to fruit paletas, they’re usually there only to enhance the natural succulence of the fruit.
 
There are a few things that make paletas noteworthy. The first is that they are found everywhere in Mexico. They’re often sold from carts, but it’s more common to find them in paleterías. In fact, I have yet to encounter a Mexican town, no matter how small, without a paletería. These shops typically have a clear freezer you can look down into and see an amazing rainbow of perfectly lined-up paletas. I remember being really, really, really excited when I was big enough to stand on my tippy toes and peek in (although being picked up gave me a better view).
 
The second thing that’s exceptional about paletas is the incredible array of flavors. This is mostly because of the wide variety of fruit that abounds in Mexico, which is also one of the most exciting things about the food in Mexico. From more familiar fruits like strawberries, apricots, blackberries, melons, tangerines, and other citrus fruits to the tropical flavors of mango, guava, passion fruit, and coconut, to the exotic, like tamarind, mamey, prickly pear, and soursop, the list goes on and on. Even some of the fruits we usually think of as vegetables, like avocados, tomatoes, and chile peppers, make an appearance in paletas, as well as flowers like roses and hibiscus.
 
Another thing that makes paletas special is how the flavors have been adapted to the modern palate and embrace the sweet, salty, spicy, and sour flavors Mexicans love. There are paletas studded with chunks of fruit and chile peppers, others made with chamoy (a pickled plum or apricot sauce), and some are even so completely covered with ground piquín chiles that you can’t even see the color of the paleta.
 
Lastly, I think it is truly remarkable that most paleterías are family businesses, and that these frozen treats are usually made in an artisanal way. Many families buy their produce from markets then peel, chop, and puree the fresh goods by hand. In these family-run businesses, each person has his or her task—after all, they’re helping provide for one another.
 
There’s some debate about the birthplace of paletas, but the most common belief is that they originated in the town of Tocumbo, which is in the state of Michoacán. If you can imagine it, as you enter the town you’re welcomed by a humongous pink concrete statue in the shape of a paleta with what looks like a bite taken out of it, and in the space where that bite was taken is a globe that looks like a scoop of ice cream. The statue is a source of great pride for the townspeople.
 
Sugarcane grows well in the area surrounding Tocumbo, and for years it was a mainstay of the local economy. But growing sugarcane means a lot of hard labor for very little return, so in the early 1900s, Tocumbo remained a tiny village where it was difficult to make a living. In 1930, Rafael Malfavón opened a small paletería, distributing his frozen treats to the townspeople and neighboring villagers using donkeys that carried wooden boxes that Señor Malfavón had designed especially for this purpose.
 
Though Rafael Malfavón may have been first, the expansion that followed has been attributed to others. Legend has it that in the mid-1940s, three men who had been selling paletas in Tocumbo for a few years—brothers Ignacio and Luis Alcázar and their friend Agustín Andrade—headed to Mexico City to open the first paletería there. They called their shop La Michoacana, and although they were illiterate, they achieved success beyond their wildest dreams. They ended up selling franchises to everyone they knew—friends, cousins, neighbors, acquaintances. Since then, La Michoacana has become one of the largest franchises in Mexico, with more than fifteen thousand outlets, and more than a thousand in Mexico City alone! So now you know why it’s said that all the best paleteros (paleta makers) are from Tocumbo, no matter where you are in Mexico.
 
In a way, all of these people from Tocumbo are related to one another, and even if they spend most of the year elsewhere selling paletas, most keep a home in Tocumbo to return to for the holidays. And it should come as no surprise that Tocumbo holds a weeklong feria de paletas (paletas fair) at the end of the year. You try many new and different flavors of paletas at the fair, but it’s really more a celebration of the town and its people, who have not only kept their tradition alive, but also expanded to the point where the most common names for paleterías are La Michoacana, Tocumbo, and La Flor de Michoacan, including in the United States.
 
While this story seems well established, another legend has it that paletas originated in the town of Mexticacán, in the neighboring state of Jalisco. In the early 1940s, a man by the name of Genarito Jáuregui, apparently a jack-of-all-trades, somehow got hold of a German machine that compacted ice. As the story goes, his compadre Don Celso de Cañadas de Obregón told him about a paletera (paleta machine) that was abandoned in the customs office in the state of Veracruz. It is said that Señor Jáuregui partnered up with another compadre, Tilde Rios, to buy the machine.
 
Back then, Jáuregui was managing a corn mill and several fields, so it fell to Rios to run the paletería. The paletera could only make one hundred paletas at a time, and they used donkeys to haul water to the paletería. Their business was successful enough that soon they bought a more modern machine. After a few years, many other people from Mexticacán jumped on the bandwagon, opening paleterías throughout Mexico.
 
In Mexico, most towns have a plaza or main square with some sort of monument or statue of a famous historical person. In Mexticacán, this monument is dedicated to the paleta, which is the town’s main source of income. The monument is a pyramid with a plaque with a carved paleta on one side. And just like in Tocumbo, Mexticacán has a festival dedicated to the paleta: the Heladexpo, one of the biggest fairs in the trade.
 
So you see, paletas have a long history in Mexico, and a significant place in Mexican cuisine. As far back as I can remember, paletas were part of my life growing up in Mexico. Back home, we’re blessed with an incredible cornucopia of fruits, and all of them make their way into paletas. When I came to the United States, I was so surprised, and so sad, to discover that the familiar colorful frozen treats filled with chunks of fruit and bright, fresh flavors were not so easily found. Most markets offered only artificially flavored pops in limited flavors. Tamarind, soursop, and prickly pear ice pops were nowhere to be found!
 
After living with this for many years, I decided to change the situation by starting my own paletería, but I was struggling to come up with a name. One day I was in a cab with two dear friends, Ian and Buho. We were talking about how long we’d been living in New York, and I ventured that I was a real New Yorker because I’d been living in the city for ten years. The conversation moved to other topics, and at some point I asked them to help me come up with a name for my enterprise. Ian turned around and said, “Why don’t you follow the idea of La Michoacana and call it La Newyorkina?” Buho and I looked at each other and smiled—we both knew it was right. So La New­yorkina (meaning “the girl from New York”) was born.
 
I began making and selling my paletas at the Hester Street Fair in downtown New York on weekends, changing flavors often depending on what was in season and what I was craving. They were received with great enthusiasm. I’m glad that La Newyorkina has given me the opportunity to share these delicious treats with New Yorkers—and that I could share a few recipes with even more people in my previous cookbook, My Sweet Mexico.
 
When I decided to start making my own paletas and selling them, one of the first things I did was find some smaller molds so I could make mini paletas. When I was little, there was a special paletería that my mom knew about that made miniature paletas, and I was wild about them. I was always the first one to volunteer anytime we had to bring something for school, and the paletería was kind enough to pack the paletas for my classmates in a cooler with ice. I couldn’t get enough!
 
While testing the recipes for My Sweet Mexico, I found that the chapter on frozen treats was one of the most fun—and the one with the most volunteers eager to sample the results. As I tested the recipes, I filled my freezer with colorful paletas and sorbets again and again, and they quickly disappeared every time as friends asked for more. I’m certain your experience will be the same.
 
Just promise me a few things: use fresh ingredients, get creative, and, most importantly, have fun!
 
 
Paletas de Fresa / Strawberry Ice Pops
 
Makes 8 to 10
 
This is probably one of the most common paletas—maybe because the flavor is so kid- and adult-friendly. Strawberry paletas have been my brother’s favorite since he was a kid.
 
The best strawberries in Mexico are from Irapuato; they’re a kind of wild strawberry that sweetens the air, and people travel from all over to get big baskets of them. If you are lucky enough to have access to wild strawberries, which are smaller than those that you find at grocery stores but have intensely concentrated sweet flavor, please use them to make these paletas. They are so good and also quite delicate, so they squish easily—perfect for our purposes.
 
 
4 cups fresh strawberries, preferably wild, hulled and cut into quarters
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
 
 
Combine the strawberries and sugar in a bowl. Let sit until the strawberries start releasing their natural juices, 20 to 30 minutes. Place in a saucepan with the water over medium heat. Simmer until they are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
 
Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor, add the lemon juice, and puree until smooth; alternatively, you could leave some chunks in if you like.
           
If using conventional molds, divide the mixture among the molds, snap on the lid, and freeze until solid, about 5 hours. If using glasses or other unconventional molds, freeze until the pops are beginning to set (1½ to 2 hours), then insert the sticks and freeze until solid, 4 to 5 hours. If using an instant ice pop maker, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Revue de presse

“The most notable contenders to the cupcake throne are macarons, whoopie pies, and, my personal favorite: ice pops. The 27-degree temps right now notwithstanding, I'm ready to crack open Fany Gerson's Paletas. Gerson's My Sweet Mexico was one of my favorite cookbooks of 2010, and Paletas looks to be equally wonderful, with recipes for ice pops in flavors ranging from coconut and mango-chile to horchata-strawberry and dulce de leche. Gerson plans to open a shop in New York serving paletas, ice cream, sorbets, and aguas frescas in late spring.”
—Publishers Weekly Spring 2011 Announcements: Top 10 Cookbooks, 1/24/11

“Lickably luscious, Paletas lets you freeze your own authentic icy Mexican treats, from the spiced (with chiles) to the spiked (with tequila)—and everything in between!”
—David Lebovitz, author of Ready for Dessert, The Sweet Life in Paris, and The Perfect Scoop
 
“Fany Gerson has followed up the triumph of My Sweet Mexico with Paletas, an engagingly written look at Mexico’s frozen treats and refreshing drinks.No one is better suited to introduce us to this delicious branch of Mexican culinary tradition that so deserves to be better known.”
—Nick Malgieri, author of BAKE!: Essential Techniques for Perfect Baking



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Amazon.com: 130 commentaires
100 internautes sur 105 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Really? $11 dollars for the secrets of freezing s***? 18 juin 2011
Par Casa Clark - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
My spouse's exact words after getting the invoice as we share an account; he would have never known but I got this via kindle. I've only just made the spicy pineapple, but it was seriously mind blowing. Our friend has made us some paletas from this book and they were equally as delicious and unique. The BEST $11 dollars I have spent in a while. You should get this book NOW. You won't regret it.
90 internautes sur 96 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Different Flavors and Great Sensations 23 décembre 2011
Par Laurie Davis - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I like this cookbook very much. It outlines the basic sugar syrup that is necessary to keep popsicles soft enough to bite, and the flavor combinations make for an explosion in the mouth. Since I enjoy frozen treats year round, the book is at easy access in the kitchen.

One major complaint though: In it, the author refers to a an ingredient that is a recipe in another of her cookbooks. Okay, I understand that perhaps it would have taken up too much space to reprint the original recipe and the fact that there are probably copyright issues involved, but I do think it's a bum steer to have to buy two cooks in order to complete one recipe. It is easy enough to find another recipe on the internet to complete the pop, but that shouldn't have had to happen.

Otherwise, this book would have received a higher rating from me.
40 internautes sur 48 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
WOW! For kids and adults 8 juin 2011
Par K. Gill - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
I certainly never thought I'd go gaga over a book about Popsicles, but all I can say is WOW. This book is beautiful and well-written, easy to use, interesting flavors (like spicy pineapple! or roasted banana or rice pudding!). Some pops are cream (or greek yogurt) based, others are fruit based. I heard someone mention how great an avocado pop was, and I couldn't conceive of it, now I have a recipe.

It's not just popsicles though, it's also "aguas frescas" and shaved ice. Some aguas frescas are rice based! Gotta try it!

The photography is amazing, the story is endearing, the instructions are simple, the ingredients are common. You can make these for your kids or your kids can help, and I really think popsicles are the new macaron, and have been since last summer...(2010)... So you can even impress your adult friends with what you turn out.

This is one monothematic book worth having.

This book is for anyone who wants to make an unexpected and pleasant treat for themselves or guests.

No special equipment necessary, but I've been told by many that this little machine is wonderful Zoku Quick Pop Maker and now that I have this book I have
31 internautes sur 37 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Paletas Are Hot! 23 juin 2011
Par Shutterpug - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Progressive International PLP-1 Freezer Pop Maker

I bought this book because I enjoyed a watermelon-basil paleta at a chili cook-off in Dallas, Texas. Now summer is here and I want to make my own.

Though I own an extensive cookbook library... I had nothing devoted to popsicles/paletas. If you like to cook, and if you like to cook with the kids in the kitchen... this is a "must have".

I have made the watermelon popsicles and they are delicious and refreshing. (See the photo).

The recipes in the book are easy to follow and include lots of photos. There are ice pops, shaved ices (raspados), and drinks (aguas frescas). Perfect for summertime entertaining! These recipes are inexpensive to make, do not take long to prepare, and will delight your family and friends.

I recently made the Spicy Pineapple Ice Pops (see the accompanying photo). Incredible! The Paletas de Cajeta (caramel ice pops) sound absolutely sinful! Ooooo... and how about a Mangonadas (spicy mango ice)?

Buy this book! Better yet... buy two and give one as a hostess gift when invited to a picnic this summer!
22 internautes sur 26 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Perfect for a hot summer day! 30 juin 2011
Par Kapir - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
Have you ever found a recipe so delicious that you licked the spatula, and once finished were even tempted to lick the blade of your food processor? That's my experience with Fany Gerson's Paletas.

I swooned when I first saw the cover. Sweet, icy, Mexican desserts? I'm sold! Aesthetically, the book is beautiful, but it's the quality of the book's recipes that really makes it stand out!

I first made Paletas de Aguacate (avocado ice pops) and found the blended result so delectable that I spent about five minutes scraping every drop from the bowl. I followed the recipe and found it incredibly easy to prepare. They take about five hours to freeze and the recipe makes six paletas when using standard size popsicle molds. Be very careful not to taste too much of the mixture, as too much tasting can result in too little mix for your molds! They taste amazing and are a wonderful mix of sweet and salty, while simultaneously being healthy. The other recipes are just as great.

Fany's explanations of each recipe are wonderfully detailed. I appreciate that she references her other recipes and suggests ways that you can really make each recipe your own. Her advice is constant, and I especially found useful her tip on how to give a yogurt-berry paleta a marbled texture.

If you don't have popsicle molds, I would highly recommend that you buy a set when you buy this book (or better yet, before!), because the recipes are irresistible and you will want to make them as soon as possible!
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