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Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit: Using the Rub-off Technique to Re-create and Redesign Your Favorite Fashions (Anglais) Broché – 19 octobre 2010

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What’s the Secret to Sewing Great-Fitting Garments?
The Rub-off—the Insider’s Technique for Creating a Great-Fitting Pattern!
Do you love to sew your own clothes but find it difficult to make commercial patterns fit? Has your favorite blouse seen better days but is no longer available in stores? Have you gained or lost weight so that your most flattering skirt doesn’t fit quite right, or would you like to update it by remaking it in a new fabric or adding new details? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you’ll find the solution right in your own closet—by creating customized sewing patterns using garments you already own and love to wear.
In Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit, Hollywood and theater costume designer Steffani Lincecum demonstrates the rub-off, a method of pattern drafting used by fashion and costume industry professionals that traces an existing garment or accessory without deconstructing or damaging it. Steffani starts with the basics, outlining two rub-off methods—tracing onto paper or draping with fabric—and explaining essential tools, materials, and sewing techniques. She then shows how to duplicate a skirt, a dress, a blouse, and a handbag, from rubbing-off the original, to creating the pattern, to cutting and sewing the new version, to making adjustments and incorporating a variety of other elements and details—not only refreshing your favorite fashions but replenishing your whole wardrobe with brand-new looks.

Biographie de l'auteur

STEFFANI LINCECUM is a designer, patternmaker, and sewing instructor with more than twenty years of experience in film, television, and theatre. She has created custom-made clothing and accessories for such movies as Nixon and Primary Colors, Emmy Award–winning TV shows 3rd Rock from the Sun and Will & Grace, and celebrities Madonna, Bridget Fonda, Tea Leoni, and Debra Messing. Steffani teaches costume construction at University of Wisconsin-Madison, and is a costume designer at the Children’s Theatre of Madison.

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Amazon.com: 32 commentaires
72 internautes sur 74 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Get the pattern from something you already love! 13 avril 2011
Par Amazon Customer - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché
This book is not about drafting a pattern from scratch. Unless you have dreams of starting a pattern line it is beyond most home sewers to work up a pattern from measurements. Frankly, we'd rather just get to the sewing part. This book demystifies the "rub-off" technique so that you can take a garment that you already love and fits and make a pattern without destroying the piece of clothing. Many people get frustrated with sewing clothes because of issues of fit, not an inability to put a garment together. Ms. Lincecum shows you how to avoid all of those fitting problems by starting with a garment that fits, making the pattern, and then changing the design details so that you can vary the design but not change the basic fit. She even shows how you can do this with handbags. Imagine, all the patterns you ever need hanging right in you closet! I expect that in a very short time this will be as invaluable to me as my copy of Fit for Real People was when I started sewing.
88 internautes sur 93 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
A must have pattern making book 27 octobre 2010
Par Vanessa Nirode - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché
I am a professional pattern maker, tailor, and costumer for film and tv. I found this book to be incredibly well written with clear, concise directions and a valuable tool for every pattern maker/tailor. The illustrations are well done and the projects presented in the book are very cute and fresh. I've been sewing and making patterns for 20 years and found new tips within the pages of this book. I recommend this book highly to all pattern makers - experienced and those just starting out.
34 internautes sur 35 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Pleased but a bit frustrated 15 avril 2012
Par Phat Stripper - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché
I got a copy of this book as a gift and was immediately interested in doing one of the methods outlined in the book. I'm not a professional sewer by any means so I knew I would need to try out one of the methods on a simple garment. I traced a simple blouse without details such as collars, yokes, plackets, darts, pockets, pleats, etc... It worked! And, I was very pleased with the results.

But, when I tried to copy a shirt with darts (a bust dart and vertical or fishtail dart), my results were hideous to say the least! I simply couldn't follow the author's directions (or math) for how to add in the amount taken up by the bust dart. Moreover, the vertical dart completely threw me for a loop! It made me think that maybe this was the problem that one reviewer, Antonio Castillo, was trying to express (???)

For me, a sewer with intermediate skills, this would have been a fantastic book if more direction and examples had been given on darts. The topic of darting just felt a bit rushed in the book. If anyone could explain the darting process for me, I'd be very grateful and could really appreciate all the other great information in this book but for now, just call me FRUSTRATED!
31 internautes sur 35 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Buy this book 23 octobre 2010
Par Kate Hardgrove - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
This book is AMAZING! It is helpful to everyone whether they be professionals or hobbyists. The clear and specific instruction is easy to follow. The visual images work brilliantly. It is a great benefit for those of us who have the perfect blouse or skirt we want to duplicate. This book should definitely be a part of every costume shop. It certainly is a part of mine.
14 internautes sur 15 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Title A Bit Vague... 4 juillet 2014
Par J.A.G. - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché
I was able to check this book out from my local library and I find that some reviewers are a bit harsh considering the book has pretty solid information. For an individual attempting to make patterns for the first time, I think the rub off technique is a good way to learn because you are using a finished item of clothing to create a template to make another version of it. Good old fashion reverse engineering. It teaches the reader about how garments are constructed from the inside out, what certain markings on a pattern represent, and how they relate to the development of the final design. I like that the author describes and demonstrates the use of various sewing and pattern making tools. A lot of books do not elaborate on this and the use of specific tools do have an effect on the final outcome and how 'professional' or how 'homemade' the final garment looks. These things are the foundation of a well made garment and it is best to establish this from the ground floor. I do feel that some of the construction instructions could use a few more illustrations to demonstrate the process.

I also feel that the book could have been titled differently. 'Patternmaking For A Perfect Fit' gives the reader the impression that the book may contain a lot of details about different fitting methods and techniques. The subtitle states 'using the rub-off technique to re-create and redesign your favorite fashions'. This is more subjective based on what you want to make. It should have been titled 'Introduction To Making Patterns Using The Rub-Off Technique' and then list the items (or display on the cover the items intended to be rubbed-off). Then the author could have made a follow-up book demonstrating more involved garments and techniques. This may be due the author's skill level or possibly the level of involvement she wants to have in writing books, which is time consuming and not her first line of business.

The author, Steffani Lincecum, holds an MFA in Costume Design. She started in theater and then moved into tv and film. She used the rub-off method to copy vintage designs and to update them for tv and film projects. She later found old patterns made by her grandmother made using newspaper and found that the technique she had learned was something she described her grandmother did as a 'household necessity' due to the availability of commercial patterns and being able to recreate items she had in her wardrobe that she liked. I believe the author's intention was to write the book and make the contents within approachable and inviting to someone who is beginning to partake in the process but also to bring a formal and professional manner in the technique and process. I think she does a pretty good job but just needs to be a bit more clear in the title or description of the book and its contents.

I have been making patterns for almost 20 years and for someone like myself, the book rehashes things I already know or have learned but I always end up learning a slightly different way to do something. That being said, I probably wouldn't buy this book due to its redundancy but the material in it is solid for someone that has beginner to moderate skills in sewing and construction and that has used commercial patterns. I can understand why some reviewers are a bit frustrated due to the limited scope of the garments contained within but they do show style variations based on a particular silhouette. You can see an example of this with the dress on the cover of the book. That also is a dead giveaway about how basic the garments demonstrated within are. I would say from looking at the technique in the book, the blouse (with collar, cuffs, and buttons) and the handbag would be the most involved and time consuming projects.

If you are well versed in making patterns and draping, this may not be the book for you but if you have some understanding of the garment design and assembly process and want to challenge yourself by recreating an redesigning some of your favorite items in your wardrobe, I say its a good buy at a good price.
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