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Postmodern Winemaking - Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft (Anglais) Relié – 7 janvier 2014


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Descriptions du produit

Revue de presse

"This is a brave book, fusing data, experience and intuition in a way that scientists rarely attempt... It's a significant and much-needed contribution to the literature of winemaking." 2013 BOOK OF THE YEAR Wine & Spirits Magazine 20131001 "Smith is nothing if not genuine in his curiosity about the appropriate uses of science in the cellar." San Francisco Chronicle 20131129 "Fascinating... His book is a tool for winemakers and a sinewy bone on which to gnaw for wine geeks." The Daily Meal 20131220 "Top 10 Wine Books of 2013: Clark Smith has written the most interesting and eclectic wine book in years. Smith has a rich and swirling mind that is on display in this both technical and philosophical treaties on modern winemaking the issues that have been pushed to the fore through innovation." Tom Wark's Fermentation 20131218 "Wine savvy comes easy for Clark Smith, who's the smartest guy in most of the rooms he inhabits... His 'Postmodern Winemaking: Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft' is a thoughtful and thought-provoking look at the 'bones' of wine - structure, acidity, tannins, minerality - and how postmodern winemaking can help the industry build upon these attributes. Thus, it's a great gift for a wine geek or a science geek or a business geek." Minneapolis Star Tribune 20131212 "A detailed, accessible portrait of what it takes to be a professional, successful winemaker." Newsday 20130905 --Newsday

Présentation de l'éditeur

In "Postmodern Winemaking," Clark Smith shares the extensive knowledge he has accumulated in engaging, humorous, and erudite essays that convey a new vision of the winemaker's craft--one that credits the crucial roles played by both science and art in the winemaking process. Smith, a leading innovator in red wine production techniques, explains how traditional enological education has led many winemakers astray--enabling them to create competent, consistent wines while putting exceptional wines of structure and mystery beyond their grasp. Great wines, he claims, demand a personal and creative engagement with many elements of the process. His lively exploration of the facets of postmodern winemaking, together with profiles of some of its practitioners, is both entertaining and enlightening.

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Amazon.com: HASH(0x947e240c) étoiles sur 5 29 commentaires
11 internautes sur 12 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x91690ad0) étoiles sur 5 Very Well Done 27 août 2014
Par Mark Stanley - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I recently published Creating World Class Red Wine on Amazon. It could be described as kind of a top-down study of how the finest wines in the world are actually made.
Some reviewers may feel that Postmodern Winemaking is diametrically opposed to my work, but I must disagree, as I abhor dualism, and the bestial competitiveness associated with it. Postmodern Winemaking is a book for professional winemakers. Amateurs may struggle with it. It helps to know your wine (and other) history, because the author makes numerous offhand references to both as well as technical references that probably only old pro's would pick up on (I was clueless at times).
Clark Smith is writing from the perspective of a winemaker who's been working in the trenches for many years. Yes, his approach is technical, but he leans heavily towards applied science rather than theoretical, which personally I feel very aligned with.
The author is a proponent of micro oxygenation techniques, which involves adding fine oxygen to a wine at several stages. Due to that focus, he has developed a very refined, sophisticated take on the role that oxygen plays in the polymerization of tannins and anthocyanins in wine. This is something we can all take note of, no matter what winemaking discipline one adheres oneself to (if at all). He is urging us to accept more tannins than we may customarily feel comfortable with. Ideally, if managed well, more tannic structure can evolve into better wine.
The first part of the book is a bit tedious, as Clark perches on a soapbox--but why not? He has things to say, and is not afraid to draw a line in the sand. He bad-mouths the natural wine making camp, and takes pot-shots at the academics (easy targets), but it is all in good fun, and light-hearted. He's funny. He writes well, but sometimes I had to re-read sections to get the big picture. Winemaking is a complex subject that is difficult to describe in a linear fashion.
At times his writing is very succinct—almost poetic. If I may, here is quote:
“Experience with elevage unlocks the possibility of harvesting at true ripeness, when tannins are at their meanest, and permits the winemaker to pursue full extraction and extended maceration without fear of bitterness or astringency. These are culinary skills, not far different from chocolate-making techniques”.
Gorgeous. Well said.
I would very much enjoy drinking a glass or two with Clark and talking a little shop.
Mark Stanley 2014
16 internautes sur 19 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x91690d1c) étoiles sur 5 INTERESTING 26 août 2013
Par Autamme_dot_com - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
Can and should modern-day scientific methods be shoe-horned into the traditional way of making wine without just making a "chemical soup" into a high-tech "chemical soup"?

This is the crux of the matter under consideration by author and winemaker Clark Smith in his collection of thoughts that at times might appear rather provoking, a little mischievous and even heretical to some. Throughout the book, the author's humour shines through thanks to the well-written, descriptive text with gems such as a wine being made "... that had more of a canned tomato soup aroma than the fresh strawberry notes I was seeking."

A lot of this book isn't new per se, but it is compiled and curated and polished into this single volume from many previously-published journal items. The author is seeking to shake an often overly-traditional industry into the future, promoting a belief that he feels would benefit the industry as a whole, through a fairly coarse, plain-talking message. This book is probably going to be "too much" for the casual wine drinker, but those who are involved in the wine industry will, or should, find this message worthy of serious consideration. The more dedicated wine drinker or culinary professional stands to learn a fair bit too, challenging many perceptions and opinions on the way.

The author notes that wine is just like architecture - the aesthetic properties of both are barely derived from their actual composition, yet so many wine buffs fuss about the use of a certain barrel, a certain vine or a certain style. Yet it is how the various "ingredients" are put together that can have the greatest impact on the taste, the most important function of the wine. Many people who are resistant to change are fearful that technology will transform their traditional bottle of wine into a modern-day chemical soup of ingredients, whilst being oblivious that that is exactly what their traditional bottle comprises of. Postmodern winemaking is perhaps just shuffling the deck of cards a little, making the "soup" a better product. Just like any development, there are pluses and minuses and you will still encounter the equivalent of bulk-produced wine and more traditionally-influenced products.

The concepts espoused might sound either far-fetched, radical or just a fairly mundane, obvious being, dependent on your point of view, your openness and your grasp of (possible) reality. You probably won't, or shouldn't, agree with everything the author says and that is no bad thing either. The author wouldn't expect anything less. That said, this reviewer is a little mixed about this book. It is an interesting subject, a fine read and certainly thought-provoking to those who have a vested interest in wine that is greater than just consuming it. The book's relative complexity and its price point may push it out of reach of the general, interested wine consumer, which is a bit of a shame but an understandable side-effect. The author has done, in any case, a very good job in setting out his stall in a fairly plain language.

So what to say? This is a book certainly worth of consideration if the subject in hand makes your eyebrows start to dance, either in shock or with curiosity.
7 internautes sur 10 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x91690f5c) étoiles sur 5 A must-read for all wine professionals and all seriously engaged wine consumers 29 décembre 2013
Par Max Canady - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle
This is a clear-minded, engaging, informative and provocative book. Readers can take out of it what they put into it, meaning that while it may be challenging for many (either because their technical expertise is not the level of the author's, and/or because they philosophically disagree with the author), it invites all into an honest, open and necessary discussion about wine. It encourages us to reconsider our prejudices and biases as we consider what it is about wine that excites us so much. The reader may not agree with the author on every point (this reviewer certainly does not). But Mr. Smith writes with a remarkably felicitous turn of phrase, and an ability to find the right metaphor to render scientific concepts clear and comprehensible to the lay reader. (Unfortunate that most science teachers lack this skill.) While some of the author's pronouncements may not be as universal as he may argue, this does not diminish the merit of the book overall, which is densely packed with valuable information and a perspective enriched from years of thought and experience.
HASH(0x90e781e0) étoiles sur 5 Very interesting - but prolix 11 octobre 2015
Par M. Paterson - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
A different approach, at once sceptical of modern winemaking whilst being often well in advance of its technical manipulations. This dichotomy however is consistent with the author's search for the uniqueness of a wine, arguing that modern methodology need not - no, should not, diminish the consumers' appreciation of structure and, most importantly, the "sense of origin" of the wine. So his thesis presented in the book is that winemakers should take advantage of all and every modern advance in machinery and technique (including reassessing "old" techniques), in order to achieve the aim of better wines and more individualistic wines.

In my 40 years in the industry I have seen massive transitions, from wax-lined concrete tanks and long cellaring (to achieve a natural fining), to stainless steel, cross-flow and membrane filtration; from it taking two years (and more) from vintage to bottle to the accountants' dream of a finished, marketed wine within two months of harvest. The reality of course is that cash-flow has 'always' been king, but in the past there were not the techniques available to achieve the speed that we have today. Smith uses all of the modern techniques yet advocates a sort of "slow food" outlook grafted over everything.

The modern wine industry faces quite severe financial challenges. All these modern techniques demand capital intensive equipment (usually meaning high borrowings); governments in much of the Western world see alcoholic drinks as a tax cash-cow (in my country, $3.00 on the lowest priced bottle is taxation, rising with price); then retailing has changed and the power of the supermarket chains enables them to dictate the price THEY will pay for a producer's wine - and of course it is not their profit margin that suffers. In turn this requires much higher volumes of through-put in order to survive financially. The real wonder then, is that industrial winemakers have not only maintained quality but have vastly improved it - even over my short, 40 year career.

Smith advocates the artisanal wine - a return to the focus on uniqueness and a promotion of texture, structure and flavour complexity as opposed what he feels are the simplistic, fruit-driven wines that have become the norm of the "industrial wines". Now I say that this is great, but we need to acknowledge that this can only be done on a small scale at greatly increased cost to the consumer. Indeed - as has always been the case - the differential between vins ordinaire and Grand Cru.

Four stars, for interesting concepts and explanations - one star less because he always uses ten words where one will do.
HASH(0x92828484) étoiles sur 5 Took Me to New Depths and Frontiers of Viticulture and Enology 23 février 2015
Par P Allen - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle
Although this book is quite subjective, the opinions presented are coming from many years of experience and a strong educational foundation. As a winemaker and masters student in viticulture and enology this book has helped me understand the conventional, "modern" practices from a balanced and critical perspective.
Wine is an art AND a science. I think Smith walks the fine line between them with great skill. And he writes in a way that shows his passion so I was able to read it easily while filling my head with useful facts and philosophies. It's not so dense that it can only be used as a reference book.
Although it's depth requires a bit more than fundamental knowledge of winemaking, I would recommend this book to a wide audience.
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