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Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style (Anglais) Relié – 4 octobre 2011

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Descriptions du produit

Revue de presse

"...first definitive and in-depth volume on preppy fashion, exploring its evolution from its pragmatic origins and presence on elite Eastern campuses in America to its profound influence internationally and metamorphosis on the runway..." ~Habitually Chic

Biographie de l'auteur

Jeffrey Banks is a Coty Award-winning designer of men’s and women’s apparel. Doria de La Chapelle is a freelance writer who is coauthor of Tartan: Romancing the Plaid. She has written on fashion, beauty, and style for Mademoiselle magazine and other publications. Fifty years ago, Lilly Pulitzer created a perennial preppy icon with a simple bright-colored cotton shift. Her company has blossomed into menswear, children’s wear, and accessories for the home.

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46 internautes sur 57 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
A glossy tome of recycled images. 10 octobre 2011
Par DecandentBookman - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I found "Preppy" to be profoundly disappointing. As I have most of the "Preppy Genre" sitting on my shelves already, I noticed right away that this book, lovely though the photos may be, is a splashy mix of every other attempt to capture the preppy style. There were many moments when I thought I was actually reading other books on the subject that I bought years ago. "Jocks and Nerds," another Rizolli style book from twenty years ago seems to have been used as a template. The writers include almost no original text, preferring to quote from every other book previously published on the subject. If I want to read what Lisa Birnbach has to say about being a prep, I can just pull down one of her two books.
As for photographs, "Preppy" includes many that have been used as examples by countless other books, articles and blogs. Any that I hadn't seen in other places were lesser examples than those one can enjoy in "Take Ivy" or Salk's book on WASP style. The book devolves even more when the chapters become endless collections of Ralph Lauren ads or those who have sought to copy Ralph Lauren. Does anyone interested in this subject not already know that Ralph Lauren's empire has been based on mimicking upper class fashion? Anyone? There is an ongoing theme of "aspiration" in this book, though I disagree that many preppy dressers are aspiring to be WASPS. The look has been popular in Japan for decades. Does that mean Japanese preppies want to be white Episcopalians from Greenwich? This is about style, not a social class, so the disjointed thesis was tedious. The Kennedy family is represented in many images in the book, but as Catholics, they can't even be described as WASPS. They are preppy.
I could have created my own version of "Preppy" and saved quite a bit of money by gluing together some cut out magazine ads, Brooks Brothers catalogues and a few lines of text from books I already own.
Lilly Pulizter wrote the forward, basically the only original thought in the entire book, in which she claims to know little about fashion and "plans to learn a thing or two from this book." Poor Lilly, I hope they gave her a free copy.
19 internautes sur 23 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
The preppy catalog, disappointingly 9 octobre 2011
Par Andrew S. Rogers - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
In a blog interview posted not long before the publication of True Prep: It's a Whole New Old World, Lisa Birnbach explained how, all those decades ago, her publishers wanted the book that became The Official Preppy Handbook to focus solely on clothing and accessories, and be titled "The Preppy Catalog." She argued, she said, that prep clothing couldn't be adequately or accurately described without the full context of preppy lifestyle, history, and worldview ... and thus "The Official Preppy Handbook," in all its satirical but affectionate beauty, was born.

Three-plus decades later, Jeffrey Banks and Doria de La Chapelle have finally given us that "Preppy Catalog" the original publishers wanted. It wasn't worth the wait.

The first several chapters are a whirlwind bus tour of the history of preppy dress, hitting all the requisite educational and literary sights and digging a few interesting photos out of the archive, but adding very little to what anyone who has a real interest in this already knows. Indeed, there is considerable debate in some circles about the extent to which "preppy" and "Ivy" overlap. Our authors don't seem to know or care: as the subtitle shows, they regard them as synonyms.

By far the most disappointing part of this book, however, is the final two chapters, when history is set aside and prep-as-she-is-lived-today is supposedly reviewed. An appendix lists a dozen or so "online prep" blogs, and there are probably a hundred more preppy-themed pages on Tumblr alone, which the authors could usefully have harvested to give us photos and stories of interesting people doing interesting things with classic preppy and Ivy ingredients. Instead, they prove the extent to which "preppy" really has become a commodity by defining modern prep solely through the work of mass-market fashion designers, advertising photographers, and a handful of celebrities. Every designer who ever buttoned down a collar seems to be name-dropped (author Jeffrey Banks has high praise for designer Jeffrey Banks), and a discouragingly huge percentage of the photos come from Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger advertising spreads.

On the whole, the authors' answer to the subtitular topic of "cultivating Ivy Style" would seem to begin and end with: Buy Ralph Lauren. Some people worry that the Internet is making books obsolete. "Preppy" is a case where the Internet makes a book unnecessary and irrelevant.
10 internautes sur 12 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Not worth the money 4 novembre 2011
Par Jam-i - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Though highly promoted, this book just looks like a collection of old Ralph Lauren ads. Disappointing. Pictorial, with little substantial background re. development of "preppy" style. There is some history - but pretty lite.
4 internautes sur 5 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
"...tribute to a lasting American phenomenon'? I think this should be corrected to say lasting British fashion 1 septembre 2014
Par Dr. Syntax - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
Following on comments from some others above, there isn't a whole lot of substance or historical perspective to this book. It does look like an advertising campaign from Ralph Lauren.

But a book like this should make more of an attempt to dig deeper into the heritage of the vast majority of the items shown or discussed. The most amusing and absurd comments are about how this is a clothing style that is deeply American. I actually don't see much of anything that is remotely American about virtually anything in the style. What should have been discussed is not the the aspirational nature of non-Wasps today to wear clothes that show their ambition to join this social class (like this class still exists), but the fact that it originated with American Wasps aspiring to be like the British.

Through the book you see ivy league schools that are completely modeled on the academic institutions of the UK, particularly the public schools like Harrow etc and the universities that dominate so completely this identity in Britain: Oxford and Cambridge.

I am surprised that it doesn't jump out to authors on this subject that these clothing articles originate in the UK, where they have specific regional associations or affiliations. Think about Oxford shirts, Oxford shoes, brogues, Tweeds (like the Harris one shown on the cover and elsewhere), Fair Isle Sweaters or Shetland wool sweaters, regimental ties/crests/scarfs (which denote military, school and other associations still today but are just interesting color combinations for RL fashion), Navy Blazers and duffel coats (British naval clothing not US Pea coats), tartans & plaids (yet another Scottish connection). What US Wasp didn't wear a trench coat? Burberry if it could be afforded, but otherwise US like London Fog aspiring to be British in a name that gives all away. And in the winter, a camel-hair top coat such as was introduced by the British Polo Team to the US around the 20's and which remains standard. Love the shot of the Norfolk jacket. Any guess as to is origin? And the suits that preppies grow up to wear with their Glen Plaids, Pinstripes, herringbone weaves, etc.

Doesn't it jump out when you see the sport connections of polo, rugby, golf, tennis, boating (think boating jackets and straw hats), or boat races (rowing) shown in the book. Even cricket fashion survives, albeit without the cricket. All key public school sports and social events in the UK that continue to remain prestigious events today. I don't see north american traditions from indigenous sports like baseball, american football, basketball (God help us), hockey, or lacrosse initiating any preppy clothing (football being the only one accepted socially in the US originally, and almost certainly because of the connection with rugby). And US preppie schools didn't copy socially inferior sports like football (soccer).

If you want to see and buy proper preppy clothing that is actually made for use, and not some take on a British sport, go to the UK, like Ralph Lauren does to source new trends. Savile Row and Jermyn Street have been generating men's fashion trends for 200 years. Like the English language that is now spoken as a global standard and spoken by more people as a second language than a first, English fashion in the form of the conventional suit and tie, dress shirt, shoes etc is a global standard that has superceded most local fashions. It is an interesting subject in itself to ask how and why this happened given it works best in a cool temperate climate like the UK but is still the standard in the incredibly cold places of Russia/Canada etc through to the vast majority of the world's hot and humid places. I regularly get annoyed that the world has adopted these conventions when they might have noticed that the British also wore shorts (like in Bermuda or the military) in hot places. But there it is.

Get to London and go see the real stores that make real clothes that work. I am thinking of the old names of Cordings, Barbour, Farlowes, Purdeys, Holland and Holland, Austin Reed, Daks, Burberry's (bit of a sell-out these days), and the new fun ones like Hackett and Joules. And the long list of great purveyors of shirts and ties on Jermyn street. And the best shoes, many still practically hand-made and the standard by which you judge quality. I couldn't help but notice that 5-8 years ago dress boots were popping up everywhere in London, and more recently Monk-strap shoes could be found at the better places. Now these are drifting into mainstream here in the US. It's true for most preppy fashion, and of course not true for much of men's fashion outside of business clothing otherwise.

Someday someone needs to do a better job of writing about the social history of clothing, including 'preppy' clothing. And I agree with the commentator above that the clothing has to be understood in this context, or it amounts to wearing a halloween costume. I agree that overdoing it without any cultural relationship just looks silly. And it is hard to see the cultural heritage of Anglo-Saxons or Wasps, or the British Isles (which includes Ireland and is the best description for this clothing heritage), reduced to being some brand that people like Ralph Lauren seem to claim as their own inspiration. I groan every time I see his arrogant ad come on just before PBS specials like Downton Abbey where he practically personally claims to have invented the fashion that existed before he was born. "I create a dream..." I think he just watches old b&w movies and looks at fashion ads from the past.

And incidentally, the fact that PBS still shows so many UK productions to an American demographic (dominated by the preppies or aspirations preppies) still tells me a lot about why British-inspired or designed preppie clothing will continue to be around for a while. And I also smile that taxpayer money and tax breaks make this happen:)
2 internautes sur 3 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Great history on the Ivy style of dress 24 mai 2013
Par Douglas Merriwether - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Despite what others may say about this book,it is a good read about the history of the preppy style of dressing. It is not a book on how to become preppy, but rather, how this syle of clothing has come into mainstream America.From Brooks Brothers to Ralph Lauren,Hilfiger,Nautica and others,this style of dress has become rooted in all cultures of America. As a person who's wardrobe and style in clothing runs from Savile Row traditional to dandy and prep, this book is a refeshing addition to my library. Again, this is not a book on how to live,or acquire the lifestyle, but, in my opinion,gives the reader a good history on the fashion of the lifestyle. It doesn't matter what race or culture you are from, if you enjoy a certain style of dress that suits your personality, more power to you. For others to suggest that this style of dress is only for a certain class of Americans, they are wrong. Read it with that in mind, and you will enjoy it as I did. Just my .02 cents worth.
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