Cross-Posted from LibraryThing.
Trina Hahnemann's cookbook is visually stunning and a very diverse introduction to Scandinavian cooking as a whole. The book is designed to be a seasonal cookbook, so recipes are presented in a monthly format with attention paid to the shifting weather and moods.
When Trina says in the introduction, "I still strongly believe that you should try to buy as much local produce as you can..." there should have been stress placed on the quality of ingredients as well as seasonality. In cooking through a few of these recipes, one thing became abundantly clear - Scandinavian cooking relies heavily on the base flavor of the ingredients. Seasoning was minimal and relied heavily on salt and pepper and little else. If a dish called for a side condiment or pickled something, this was generally a well-called for spark of flavor.
Of the recipes, we tried in the book:
Caraway Seed Bread: Easily made in an evening with quick-rise yeast (this cuts rise time in half). The superfine sugar is easy to locate in grocery stores. The buttermilk base helped create a dense, sweet loaf and the caraway flavor was prevalent.
Wienerschnitzel with braised potatoes: It's admitted upfront that although this dish originated in Vienna, it's become a classic throughout Europe. This version took no time at all to put together and cooked easily on a weeknight. The seasoning is incredibly light, but when you serve with anchovies, capers and lemons, the flavor comes together.
Captain's Stew: A comfort food that will become a staple. Best described as a mashed potatoes and chuck steak, this does have a healthy dose of black pepper, but is again, lightly seasoned. We served with pickled beets and found the flavor combination to be really good.
Baked Trout with New Potatoes and Smoked-Cheese Cream: The vegetables and trout were perfect. The potatoes called for rygeost or smoked ricotta cheese - neither of which were available locally. We ended up improvising by taking cream cheese and mixing in a bit of liquid smoke after reading up on the consistency. We're not sure how close it was, but the side dish was really good and something we'll make again.
Chicken Liver Pate with Aquavit: Aquavit was not available locally after checking at three different liquor stores. So for a week, I made my own Aquavit using vodka and a spice mixture. The chicken liver pate was still lightly seasoned, which did not work in this dish's favor. The homemade Aquavit flavor was there, but it mostly tasted of chilled chicken liver and a hint of sour cream.
There are other recipes I'd like to try, which definitely holds favor with this book. I have two bits of criticism to offer. The first is that the glossary is incredibly light and concentrates on the wrong ingredients in many cases. While time is spent ingredients like Beer, Beets, Mustard and Salmon, ingredients like rygeost never make the list. The second is that the book is missing is a good substitute/how-to list - for ingredients that may be difficult to find outside of Scandinavia (homemade Aquavit is mentioned in the glossary but no recipe is offered). Substitutions are mentioned occasionally, but are rather hit-or-miss and sometimes make little sense. (Under Creme Fraiche, she says, "In the United States, reduced fat sour cream is used instead." - I found this rather odd since I can get Creme Fraiche in the same space as sour cream at any mega-mart nowadays.)
