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Swindled: From Poison Sweets to Counterfeit Coffee - The Dark History of the Food Cheats (Anglais) Relié – 24 janvier 2008

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Descriptions du produit

Revue de presse

Praise for Bee Wilson's The Hive:

'Richly informative and beautifully written'

(The Times)

Entertaining and thoroughly worthwhile (Sunday Times)

Can hardly be bettered (Guardian)

Fascinating, careful, witty and intelligent ... Almost any paragraph chosen at random is entertaining (Prue Leith, New Statesman)

Fascinating (Humphrey Carpenter, Sunday Times)

Buzzes with info and has the prettiest dust-jacket of the third millennium (Barry Humphries, Sunday Telegraph)

Erudite, informative, accurate and a delight to read. (Times Literary Supplement)

'There are delights and surprises on virtually every page of this gem of a book' (Sunday Telegraph)

'Wilson's sprightly hymn to the honeybee ... conveys ... the marvel, complexity and ultimate unknowability that has made the beehive such a fascination' (Independent)

'A brilliant examination of a natural phenomenon we all take for granted' (Sunday Express)

'Wilson brings a humorous touch to the history of swindlers who have tampered with our food' (Oxford Times)

Présentation de l'éditeur

Salmonella . . . toxins . . . additives . . . food scares . . . Have you ever wondered how our food has become so untrustworthy? Have we ever been able to trust what we eat?

Via a fascinating mix of food politics, history and culinary detective work, Bee Wilson uncovers the many methods by which swindlers have tampered with our food throughout history. From the leaded wine of ancient Rome to the food piracy of the twenty-first century we see the extraordinary ways food has been padded, poisoned, spiked, coloured, substituted, faked and mislabelled everywhere it has been sold. Bee Wilson reveals the strong historical currents which enable the fraudsters to flourish; the battle of the science of deception against the science of detection; the struggle to establish reliable standards. She also suggests some small ways in which we can all protect ourselves from swindles and learn to trust what we eat again.

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Couverture | Copyright | Table des matières | Extrait | Index | Quatrième de couverture
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Commentaires client les plus utiles sur (beta) 16 commentaires
21 internautes sur 23 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
An important, life-changing book 20 novembre 2008
Par S. Hoffman - Publié sur
Format: Relié
The first time I went to the grocery store after finishing this book, I found myself unable to buy formerly favorite products. The documentation of the way food is altered, adjusted, shaped, and -- yes -- adulterated is both convincing and habit-changing.

Bee Wilson takes a subject that could easily be dull and turns it into a fascinating history of the industrialization of the food supply. She also describes how food detectives in both England and the United States worked to clean up the food supply and how legislatures in both countries, enamored with laissez-faire economic policies, repeatedly refused to pass laws to protect the public from unscrupulous food vendors.

What's amazing is that the history she documents for Britain and the US in the 19th century is exactly what is happening right now in China. In fact the publication of this book coincided with the latest scandal of food contamination in China -- the addition of melamine to milk products that caused the deaths of at least 6 children in China and severe kidney disease in thousands of other children. Contaminated milk products from China have even been imported to the Japan and the US, despite these countries' regulatory structures.

EVERYONE WHO EATS should read this book and use the information Ms. Wilson provides to improve their personal food supply. The only way we can ensure that our food is healthful and not contaminated is to "vote with our dollars" and only buy food that we know is safe. It's hard to do, but not impossible. I now read labels of everything I buy and reject foods processed or imported from countries such as China which do not have strong protective laws. I have also written letters opposing the plan to have chickens grown in the US processed in China and reimported to the US. This is insane! But until enough consumers actively choose healthful products and refuse to buy fake crap, food manufacturers will not change.

Yes, it costs more money. I now buy almost all my food from my local organic co-op market. I'm lucky in that I have a large co-op where I live. Even chains such as Whole Foods are not necessarily safe vendors -- we found frozen broccoli at Whole Foods that was labeled as coming from China. We did NOT buy it. Given the fraud that exists in Chinese food labeling, that would be a dangerous purchase. Pesticide residues on vegetables in China are known to be very high.

The end lesson: Read labels, know what you're buying and buy carefully. And yes, spend the extra money on locally-grown organic. Find out what real food tastes like.
19 internautes sur 22 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
You are not what you think you eat 17 novembre 2008
Par Harry Eagar - Publié sur
Format: Relié
It sounds like a page ripped from today's headlines: Chinese babies dying from fraudulent baby milk.
However, British food journalist Bee Wilson's "Swindled" isn't quite that up to the minute. Her chapter on dying Chinese babies is not about today's cow's milk tainted with melamine but 2004's scandal about fake formula.
But the recurrence nicely illustrates her thesis that food fraud has always been and will always be with us. And, she says, people in advanced countries with well-established regulatory agencies should not be so confident they are, indeed, what they think they eat.
From plutocrats being palmed off with sevruga caviar at beluga prices (but who cares?), to mislabeled Chilean sea bass to (although she doesn't mention this one) Starbucks' selling cheap Central American java for genuine Kona, there are recent frauds aplenty.
Wilson is, no contest, the best stylist writing about food for newspapers in English (in the Sunday Telegraph), and her chapters on the early history of food fraud are strong stuff.
She makes the point that the longer the chain from producer to eater, the more opportunities for chicanery, and the more difficult it becomes to detect the fraud.
Scientific aids begin with Frederick Accum in 1820, one of several odd ducks Wilson profiles in the history of food safety; but scientific frauds have more than kept pace with detection methods.
In her later chapters, Wilson displays a bee in her bonnet about GMOs (although she has little to say about this); and a touching but misplaced faith in the superiority of organic food, however defined.
Her complaint that people cannot recognize good food because they have never tasted it is at least partly valid. However, her favorite target -- white bread -- is not as good an example as she thinks.
Europeans have long preferred soft white bread to a "crusty, malty loaf," but this was not solely a matter of social pretentiousness, as Wilson thinks. Considering the prevalence of abscesses in our ancestors' teeth, eating hard bread was torture.
9 internautes sur 10 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Swindled: The Dark History of Food Fraud, from Poisoned Candy to Counterfeit Coffee 29 décembre 2011
Par William P. Palmer - Publié sur
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Review of Swindled: The Dark History of Food Fraud, from Poisoned Candy to Counterfeit Coffee by Bee Wilson in 2008 published by Princeton University Press (Princeton & Oxford).

Reviewer: Dr W. P. Palmer

I very much enjoyed this book, which I purchased to see what it added to the story of Frederick Accum, whose life I was researching at the time. I found that the writing combined genuine scholarship and the telling of fascinating stories of the various people who in different ways have contributed towards the safety of our food. I always fear that books on food may be written by `food cranks' based on their own `crackpot' theories. This book is NOT like that and gives a true and accurate account the very considerable progress that has been made in the safe preparation of common foods which in the early Nineteenth Century could contain poisonous chemicals.

The first portion of the book mainly concerns the life of Frederick Accum. Accum was born on March 29th, 1769 in Bückeburg, Germany. He moved to Britain in 1793 and five years later he started his own business as a chemical analyst and vendor of chemical equipment. He had several other chemically related positions, for example as a lecturer, an expert witness, an author and as a researcher. In 1820 he wrote a book, entitled A Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and Culinary Poisonsin which he described many food staples including cream, confectionary, pepper, tea, coffee, spirituous liquors, milk, meat, vegetables as being deliberately adulterated and he named those responsible. Within a few months, he was forced to return to Germany as he was observed tearing out pages from books he read at the Royal Institution and he was prosecuted for this. He died in Berlin on 28th June 1838 aged 69 years.

The story of food safety continued some forty years later with the work of Arthur Hill Hassall, who actually succeeded in persuading the British Government to take some action for the first time. Mention is made of many activists who helped improve food safety including Harvey Washington Wiley and Upton Sinclair (author of The Jungle (Dover Thrift Editions). The story is brought up to date with information about some of the many food scandals that have occurred in developing countries.

An excellent book! Well worth your attention!

2 internautes sur 2 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Look Before You Eat! 4 septembre 2011
Par Alice Friedemann - Publié sur
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
If you're looking for a way to lose weight, many of the hideous and frightening examples of food adulteration in this book should do the trick, especially since in modern times most of the swindling is done with packaged food. Wilson makes it clear clear that cheating has always gone on and always will, especially in societies with laissez-faire governments who prefer promoting commerce to protecting their citizens. In the United States and Britain, there is very little testing of chemicals added to food and most chemical additives don't need to be listed on labels.

Food in many nations is sold on a "buyer beware" basis. I personally can't afford to test rats over decades with elaborate chemistry sets at home, so I try to cook from scratch with whole grains, vegetables, fruit, etc.


Bakers used to adulterate bread with alum to make it whiter, because for millennia people have wanted white bread because it's more prestigious. Not because it tastes better or is better for you. Alum not only whitens, it adds to the profit margins by making loaves heavier since alum holds more water.

This probably has harmful health effects, in the 19th century a manual laborer might get 70% of their energy from bread, consuming 20 grams of alum daily from adulterated bread, which could potentially lead to health problems (M. Dunnigan. 2003. "John Snow and alum-induced rickets from adulterated London bread: an overlooked contribution to metabolic bone disease". International Journal of EpidemiologyVolume 32, Issue 3 Pp. 340-341)

Bee lists all the ways that bread is adulterated legally now with all kinds of "unsavoury ingredients: emulsifiers; flour treatment agents; soya flour; bleach and flavourings; hardened fat to give the crumb its requisite soft and springy texture; hidden enzymes not listed on the label".

Once upon a time, governments intervened to make sure that bread was high quality -after all, this was how most people got their calories. French police made sure loaves were of an exact weight, used non-bitter grain, and were baked properly.

In 1266 there were 7 kinds of bread. The rich ate the best bread from the best flour and corn, while the masses ate less-refined whole wheat bread, unless they were very poor, in which case they ate bread made from the miller's leftovers, which may not have tasted great, but at least no fraud was committed.

Preventing fraud was done by only allowing bakers to make one kind of bread, that way, if you made only the coarsest bread, there could be no temptation for a baker of the finest bread to substitute coarser breads for more profit.

The middle ages were the golden years of bread. Bakers had to mark their breads so that if there were any problems, they could be tracked down and held accountable. Middlemen weren't allowed to sell bread. Four times a year bakers and millers were inspected. As Miller puts it "People were harder on bakers than on other food-sellers because, while butter and cheese and wine might mean pleasure, bread meant life. Every ounce mattered....when the basic ingredients of bread were tampered with, this signaled not just disorder but famine".

For most of the past 6,000 years, if a baker tried to adulterate bread, the customers would know, because people knew what good bread tasted like. This is a point Wilson makes over and over in the book - if you don't know what good, fresh, unadulterated food tastes like, you won't know you've been duped.

The golden age of bread was from the 11th century to the 16th century, when guilds main goal was to keep the quality of their bread high. One bad baker ruined the integrity of all, so cheating wasn't tolerated. But the disincentives were so high this rarely happened. It was expensive to join a guild, and it gave you great status, so it wasn't worthwhile cheating someone of a few pennies and risk losing your bakery and standing in the community. Guilds had strict rules to preserve their honor. They worked hard to find the secrets to making their goods the best possible, policed themselves, and worked with government regulators to make sure all guild members were producing quality products.

When bread was "deregulated" in England in 1822, the effect was to transform baking into "one of the most depressed, overcrowded and unrenumerative trades of the day". Thousands of new bakers sprang up, all trying to undercut each other. They did this by reducing the quality of the ingredients to a minimum and cheating on the weight of the bread.

In France on the other hand, Napoleon ordered the police to maintain an active watch on bakeries. In "Six Thousand Years of Bread", Jacob writes that Napoleon believed wars would be won or lost based on how well the soldiers ate, and he made sure his soldiers had the best bread of any army.


Unlike bread, due to Robert Parker and others who've popularized wine tasting, great numbers of people are aware of how good wine should taste. Now, on average, wine is more pure and perhaps more delicious than it has ever been in the past.


To make cream or milk appear thicker and richer, rice flour, arrowroot, and other thickeners were added.


This section is quite funny. In Wisconsin in the 1950s you could only buy white margarine so that no one could mistake it for butter, but it came with yellow food coloring so that once you were home you could make it yellow. Rather than go to the trouble, many drove to Illinois to get yellow margarine. Bee says imagine "crossing the state line to get a genuinely fake version of a fake product so as not to be reduced to the indignity of having to fake it for yourself".

Margarine was invented in France by Mege-Mouries in the 1860s by mixing suet, cattle stomachs and udders with bicarbonate of soda.

Food cheating in 19th century Britain

Bee explains how candies were poisoned, tea was faked, beer watered down, and how even cheap false peppercorns were made from floor sweepings, clay, and other material.

Even in 1920, when Accum published his groundbreaking book A Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and Culinary Poisons Exhibiting the Fraudulent Sophistications of Bread, Beer, Wine, Spiritous Liquors, Tea, Coffee ..., the reaction of the government was that any kind of punishments or regulation would stifle the market. It would just have to remain caveat emptor, let the buyer beware, even though it was impossible for consumers to know that their food was being adulterated.


This is an interesting topic to me as Malthusian times are upon us with increasing population and decreasing energy, mineral, and natural resources such as topsoil, fisheries, fresh water, etc., all stirred into a deadly mix by unstable weather as climate change makes it harder and harder to grow crops before drought, floods, hail, etc destroy them.

In the past when famine struck, people ate animals they didn't wish to kill, like donkeys. Then they'd move on to poor quality grains, such as sprouted rotten grain. Then what were considered animal food, such as acorns or vetch. The last resort (before cannibalism) weren't really foods, but things like tree bark, twigs, leaves, roots, and leather, which could leave peole stupefied, since some had drugging effects. In Russia, people resorted to making bread made from straw, birch bark, buckwheat husks, pigweed and so on.

Super-size me: The Poison Squad

Long before the movie "Super-size Me" came out, there was a "poison squad" of 12 healthy young men who ate preservatives to see if they caused any harm.

Getting rid of food swindling

Bring back the guilds, where customers can be sure of high quality goods. Industrial food corporations have the opposite goal - use cheap ingredients to undercut the prices of their rivals. Factory food companies have the money to hire lobbyists to prevent regulation, or keep what regulations do exist from being enforced most of the time.

France has made a lot of money by ensuring their food and wine are high quality products. People travel there from all over the world for their cuisine. Their health and lifespan are better than most nations. I don't doubt that historians will see one of the many reasons for the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire as the poor health of most of its citizens, much of it due to the chemical trans-fatty nasty processed factory food so many people eat.

So even if manufacturers complain to government the economy will be ruined, it appears that honesty costs much less.

The exact names of food swindlers needs to be printed for all to see.

Further Reading

If you're interested in this topic, Marion Nestle has many books out about food. "Food Safety" explains why you can't count on the FDA or USDA to do help you, mainly because they're under-funded and have been captured by industry.

Take Action

Bee doesn't go into this much, but I find it ironic that despite all our "progress", since 1870, we've been eating the worst bread for the past 6,000 years - a giant step backwards and probably a good part of why Americans have a shorter lifespan than 50 other nations and are far less healthy as well. It all began when roller mills were invented in 1870 to separate bran and germ from the endosperm, the latter of which is made into white flour. Meanwhile, the bran and germ, , where most of the fiber, vitamins, minerals, essential oils, and phytochemicals are is fed to animals. What we eat is basically starch, which converts to sugar quickly, leaving you less full, more likely to become obese and get diabetes (and heart disease, strokes, cancer, etc), plus it no longer behaves like flour - so a great many chemicals are added, some of them to keep the bread "fresh" for a month on the shelf.

Why aren't millers and bakers in jail? How can you steal nearly all the nutrition and get away with that?

I was so outraged that the nutrition had been stolen that I started milling my own flour, and for centuries others have done the same, since the only way to know you're getting good bread is to buy the wheat (and other grains), mill them, and bake your own bread. This is actually quite fast and easy, paying for itself in a year, or even less if you also make your own granola and other bread products.

I don't think people know anymore what real bread tastes like, and many brought up on factory bread might not like real bread if they had the chance to try it. But very few have - even the expensive bakeries in the San Francisco Bay Area label breads as "whole wheat" when white flour is the main ingredient most of the time.

Find out more at Wholegrainalice dot com which I've started to alert people to the harm white flour does and what they can do about it
4 internautes sur 5 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Muddled 14 août 2013
Par J. Slott - Publié sur
Format: Relié
On page 232, Ms. Wilson describes the Food Additives Amendment Act of 1958 which she alleges was put into effect in order to clarify the notion that `food' additives are any chemical substances added to a processed food that can readably be seen as distinct from the food proper. The chemicals then known to be used in food processing were separated into three categories: NONE of which deals with the distinctive qualities of these chemicals, but their safety as far as human health is concerned.

On pages 221-222, the author argues that for the British people, the strict food rationing and the attempts to placate their sustenance needs through `mock' foods (such as powdered soups) during World War II had made them feel deprived and dreary, and hoping for the day when they could go back to their regular diet. But then she asserts that the years of rationing had so acclimatized people that not only did they keep on using food substitutes, but would prefer them to the `real' stuff.

On page 205, Ms. Wilson dismisses as too harsh the placing of responsibility for maintaining the quality of ketchup on the `harmless consumer' after it was noted that for most of the times ketchup went bad, it was due to its gross mishandling by the consumer. It would seem that for Ms. Wilson the employment of rudimentary common sense is asking too much of the masses. This attitude is one of the reasons why one finds so many obvious and over-the-top warnings adorning the labels of countless products in stores everywhere.

On page 120, there is a mezzotint of anti-adulterant crusader Arthur Hill Hassall whom the author affirms was 45 years old at the time of its making. She notes that in the background is a "statuette presented to him in 1865". But Hassall was born in 1817; by 1865 he would have been 48 years old. (I admit that this is a minor quibble but still...)

Obviously I can't list all the inconsistencies I found in this book. While I found it an engrossing-enough read at first, it eventually became too tiring (and annoying) for me to be constantly on the look-out for its muddled-up following-through of events or to be filling in the gaps of Ms. Wilson's questionable `insights'.
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