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The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors from Europe's Western Coast [Anglais] [Relié]

David Leite

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Description de l'ouvrage

18 août 2009
Winner of the IACP 2010 Julia Child Award for First Book

Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and Spain, Portugal is today’s hot-spot vacation destination, and world travelers are enthralled by the unique yet familiar cuisine of this country. The New Portuguese Table takes you on a culinary journey into the soul of this fascinating nation and looks at its 11 surprisingly different historical regions, as well as the island of Madeira and the Azores, and their food culture, typical dishes, and wines. This book also showcases Portugal's pantry of go-to ingredients, such as smoked sausages, peppers, cilantro, seafood, olive oil, garlic, beans, tomatoes, and bay leaves—all beloved by Americans and now combined in innovative ways.

In The New Portuguese Table, David Leite provides a contemporary look at the flavorful food of this gastronomic region, sharing both the beloved classics he remembers from cooking at his grandmother’s side, such as Slowly Simmered White Beans and Sausage, as well as modern dishes defining the country today, like Olive Oil–Poached Fresh Cod with Roasted Tomato Sauce. With full-color photographs throughout and a contemporary perspective, The New Portuguese Table is the handbook to the exciting cuisine of Portugal.

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Descriptions du produit

Extrait

Green Olive Dip
patê de azeitonas verdes
makes about 1½ cups

When I visited A Bolota, a lovely restaurant perched on the sweeping plains of the eastern Alentejo, this dip was brought to our table. As I nattered away with friends, I dipped, spread, and nibbled, until I realized I alone had eaten all of it. Later, when I became friendly with the cook, Ilda Vinagre, I watched her make it and was flummoxed when she whipped up its silky base: Milk “Mayonnaise” (page 237)–whole milk whirred into a smooth consistency with the addition of vegetable oil. I serve this as a dip with a platter of crudités, alongside crackers or bread, or, sometimes, as a topping for grilled fish.

Atenção •Don’t make this in a food processor. The bowls of most processors are too large to allow the scant amount of ingredients to whip up to the right consistency. A small narrow blender, or a mini chop or handheld blender, works best.

⅓ cup whole milk
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets
1 small garlic clove, smashed
Leaves and tender stems of 6 fresh cilantro sprigs
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
¾ cup vegetable oil
⅔ cup pitted green olives such as manzanilla, rinsed quickly if particularly salty, roughly chopped

1.Add the milk, anchovies, garlic, two thirds of the cilantro, and the pepper to a blender and pulse to combine. With the motor running, pour the oil in what the Portuguese call a fio, or fine thread. Keep whirring until the oil is incorporated and the mixture thickens, 30 to 40 seconds.
2.Scrape the dip into a serving bowl and stir in the olives. Mince the remaining cilantro, sprinkle on top, and serve.

Revue de presse

"A modern classic cookbook."
—BlackBook.com

"Three-time James Beard Award winner Leite has written a foodie love letter to a European nation. The culinary profile of the 13 historic provinces, along with a shopping guide to the Portuguese pantry, are great, but the real payoff is the 130-plus recipes that range from the veggie-rich caldo verde to such new classics as scrambled eggs with asparagus and fresh cod."
—Dana Dickey, Bon Appétit


"Iberian gem. The New Portuguese Table by David Leite, a prolific food journalist who founded the website LeitesCulinaria.com, is the best book on the subject of Portuguese cooking in years. Leite, whose parents emigrated to the U.S. from Portugal, is captivated by the way cooks there have pointed their under appreciated cuisine in new directions. He dutifully catalogs Portugal's iconic wines and traditional foods--we learn how to make clams and chouriço in a copper cataplana--but we also get decidedly new-school preparations like cheese-stuffed pork tenderloins and Filet-o-Fish-inspired salt cod sandwiches. Trad or mod, this is some winning home cooking."

Saveur

"Beautifully illustrated, The New Portuguese Table is a smart, delicious and highly personal travelogue through both memory and terrain."
—Maricel E. Presilla, MiamiHerald.com

"In Leite's The New Portuguese Table, the author performs a multitude  of feats: first, he provides [a] culinary travel guide to the country of his ancestors...introduces, with great  specificity, a multitude of regional delicacies...and finally presents recipes  ranging from the most remarkably parsimonious...to the more extravagant and modern. Leite's book is a stunning passport to a food and a people virtually unknown to most Americans, even though they are only five hours away from our mainland."
—Elissa Altman, The Huffington Post

"This is the perfect cookbook for lovers of salt cod, and it just might be the perfect cookbook for those who dislike the mild, Atlantic fish. Leite, a three-time James Beard award winner and proprietor of the Web site LeitesCulinaria.com, offers a wealth of recipes for the brackish dried fish, including a traditional version of pastéis de bacalhau (salt cod fritters) and a newfangled mini salt cod sandwich that is the Portuguese equivalent of McDonald's Filet-O-Fish. By highlighting the eclectic ingredients and modern techniques that define the country today, Leite brings the often-overlooked foods of Portugal center stage. This fully illustrated book begins with an extensive glossary of Portuguese staples, plus a port primer and an introduction to Madeira, and ends with a chapter devoted to workhorse sundries such as fiery piri-piri paste and smoked paprika oil. Along the way home cooks are introduced to a delectable jumble of dishes that range from classic to contemporary. A comforting adaptation of the fabled stone soup is enlivened with spicy chouriço sausage; simple-yet-elegant duck breasts are sauced with white port and black olives; and a dip made with anchovies, green olives, cilantro, and whole milk is surprisingly harmonious. The desserts are comparatively docile–molasses cookies, baked custard tarts–but the recipe variation for fatias douradas (Portuguese sweet bread French toast) is truly over-the-top. (Aug.)"
Publishers Weekly (Starred Review)


"If your finances don't permit a trip abroad this year, perhaps this cookbook will provide some comfort–though it might just reinforce your urge to hit the sunny beaches of the Algarve. Leite, a noted Portuguese American food writer and publisher of the James Beard Award-winning web site Leite's Culinaria (www.leitesculinaria.com), begins by outlining Portugal's diverse regional cuisines and then describes traditional ingredients. From there it is a straightforward listing of appetizers, soups, fish, meat, poultry, vegetable/egg/rice dishes, breads, sweets, liqueurs, and condiments, with approximately 150 recipes overall. Each recipe begins with a paragraph relating its background, which adds to the book's homey feel. The recipes, many inspired by Leite's memories of his grandmother's cooking, are designed for the home cook and generally don't require exotic ingredients, although a supplier for salt cod may be necessary. A list of sources is provided for the few hard-to-find items, and color photos add to the presentation. Full of delicious-sounding recipes, this title is sure to appeal to adventurous cooks wanting to try a new ethnic cuisine and will also be popular with Portuguese American communities."
—Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH (Library Review)


"David Leite's The New Portuguese Table is in fact three superb books in one volume: a thrilling travelogue, a thorough guide to Portuguese regional dishes and ingredients, and a transporting kitchen companion. The recipes in it will not only spirit you to an exotic, alluring place, they'll change the way you cook. We'll wager that after making Potato Skin Curls with Herbs, you will never look at potato peelings the same way again!"
—Matt Lee and Ted Lee, authors of The Lee Bros. Simple, Fresh, Southern

"David Leite takes you right to the heart of the good stuff, scrupulously (and appetizingly) exploring and explaining an egregiously overlooked and unappreciated range of flavors and ingredients. Portugal once ruled the known world, and the recipes in this book are–in many ways–the history of the world–on your plate."
—Anthony Bourdain

"This book begs the question why, in heaven's name, have we ignored Portugal for so long? David Leite's Portuguese dishes practically stand up and salute with flavor. And he is smart about the Portugal he portrays. The temptation is to look only to the past and the traditional, but David knows cuisines are restless, ever shifting beings. He gifts us with the land of his family as it was and as it is now. We'll be cooking from this book for a long time."
—Lynne Rosetto Kasper and Sally Swift, authors of The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper

"I am very impressed with The New Portuguese Table. It is a welcoming, wonderful, satisfying, and passionate cookbook, an enticing view of Portugal through the lens of its food. David Leite is a terrific writer and he has a lot to teach us about one of Europe's most extraordinary and diverse cuisines. Bravo!"
 —Paula Wolfert

"Long overlooked in our culinary literature, Portugal's rich, historic cuisine finally has a passionate and knowledgeable ambassador in David Leite. Keenly aware of what modern American cooks want these days, Leite has compiled an incomparable collection in which every recipe is as rewarding to eat as it is simple to make. Bravo David!"
 —Anya von Bremzen, author of The New Spanish Table

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Amazon.com: 4.7 étoiles sur 5  39 commentaires
77 internautes sur 77 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Because there is so much more to Portuguese food than caldo verde. 28 août 2009
Par Reader - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
I can tell you that this is a beautifully photographed cookbook replete with fabulous information about Portuguese food - which is absolutely true.

Allow me to give you my reasons for recommending this cookbook above others you may be pondering.

1. There are several good solid Portuguese cookbooks that focus on traditional mainland recipes. (I have most of them.) This is the only one I know of that a) focuses on the lighter, brighter, modern flavors of Portugal, and b) addresses and gives equal weight to trends in both mainland and Azorean cuisines.

2. The recipes work. I made four recipes from the book, and all were delicious. The instructions are simple, clear, and solid. The photographs are accurate.
(The recipes for lemon-mint chicken soup, lamb meatballs, and fried cornbread alone are worth the price of the book. Don't be scared by the lemon and black olive cookies, either; they are wonderful with tea.)

3. You will not be hunting down obscure or expensive ingredients. There are some ingredients particular to Portuguese cooking which can be hard to obtain unless you live in New Bedford or the CA Central Valley. This book has something I haven not seen in any other Portuguese cookbook: an entire chapter explaining the main ingredients of Portuguese cuisine AND what commonly-available substitutes will work in the recipes. If you want the most authentic ingredients possible, a source list is included also. I live in a small town, and for the four recipes I've made so far, all ingredients were available in my local grocery.

David Leite not only knows food and Portugal, but also is a talented writer. Each recipe has a brief story that entices the cook's imagination. He also understands that food is an integral part of our identity, and - like fashion, art and music - cuisine evolves. Grandmother's kale soup may sustain and comfort us in times of duress, but each generation adds its own signature to tradition. The New Portuguese Table adds a brilliant signature.
19 internautes sur 20 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 A Portuguese Cookbook for the 21st Century 18 août 2009
Par Culinary Muse - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
When I first saw this new cookbook it was open to a picture of fried cornmeal with kale (milho frito, p.192-193). My Grandmother made this for us every Sunday morning with poached eggs. I never knew the history of the recipe and that it is a traditional dish from her island of Madeira. I tried out the recipe this past weekend for my family and it was a hit. Easy and delicious. What I liked best about it was the addition of the ricotta cheese. Not something she would have done but it added just the right 21st Century touch. Thanks to David for bringing back such great memories and for the great information he gives with each recipe.
10 internautes sur 10 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Come for the photos, stay for the food 28 août 2009
Par cysusie - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
After I bring them home, most cookbooks take up permanent residence in the bookcase in the living room. Not this one. Once I was through savoring every word and admiring every photograph, the book landed on the kitchen counter. I've devoured the Sweet Red Pepper Jam, Portuguese Pizza and Chocolate Mousse. A fringe of sticky notes mark the recipes I can't wait to try.

I took a chance on this book since I knew almost nothing about Portugal and even less about the cuisine. The writing and the photos drew me to the book and the recipes keep me coming back for more.
10 internautes sur 11 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 The New Portuguese Table Cookbook 4 septembre 2009
Par Monita Olive - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié
Anyone who has ever read any of David Leite's food writings must have hoped he had a cookbook of his own doing a slow simmer on his foodie horizon. This man has a way with words, as evidenced at his award winning web site, [...] and now he has revealed he also has a way with "slivers of whisker-thin kale" and
"slices of sausage" as well. It was just a matter of time before he served up The New Portuguese Table", and that he has now done!

Born of Portuguese immigrants and raised in the US, it wasn't until he lost his Grandmother that he begun to pay attention to the food being cooked in his Mother's home. He was concerned that when she passed on as well, so would all the Portuguese recipes he grew up enjoying. He knew he did not want that to happen so went on a quest
to watch her cook and documented her recipes.

To get in touch with his ancestral culinary heritage, he visited Portugal on vacation several times through the years before deciding to live there for a year to experience the food and the country. While becoming friends with local chefs and learning their secrets of improving old, traditional flavors with exciting new ones, he translated these techniques into how he could take his own recipes to culinary heights achievable by all cooks.

It was during that year in Portugal that his cookbook began to come together and he found that even though his mother's recipes had the same names as those he experienced in Portugal, they didn't taste quite the same. There was a food revolution going on and he was in the middle of it -- in the right place, at the right time and Leite
had the finesse to convey it to all of us in The New Portuguese Table.

The recipes he captured and preserved are excellent! We've tried several of them and I know they will become family favorites that we will make over and over again. Dishes such as his Lemon-Mint Chicken Soup, the Pumpkin Soup with Spicy Seeds, Smoked Paprika Oil, and my favorite - - Eggs Simmered in Tomato Sauce. It is a simple dish, but so full of flavor that there is a risk of it replacing some old Southern favorites as my new comfort food. The Azorean Kale, Sausage, and Bean Soup (sopa de couve) he included in the cookbook was his Mother's recipe and that alone made me want to try it. Like his Dad, we also tried it for breakfast one morning and found it to be just as flavorful, comforting and sustaining as it was at dinner the evening before.

The "to try" recipes waiting for me are Sweet Lemon and Black Olive Wafers and the Green Olive Dip. The combination of those flavors in the wafers has to be as delicious as they sound and the photo alone is enough to whet the appetite. The dip is made with milk and that intrigues me enough to try it with green olives.

Regarding the photos, The New Portuguese Table is full of engaging photos, a feature that is sure to appeal to those who like to see how the food looks when prepared. The plus here is that there are many photos of the Portuguese countryside also - an open invitation to experience the Portuguese food heritage.

Beautiful food, charming countryside, delectable recipes, great cookbook! What could be better? Volume 2? The New Portuguese Table will be as important to your cookbook collection as it is to mine!

Reviewed by Monita Olive for CookbooksEtCetera on September 3, 2009
6 internautes sur 6 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Recipes To Love 20 août 2009
Par CFJ - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format:Relié|Achat vérifié
My husband and I love to travel and Portugal is one of our favorite places to visit.
We often dream about the wonderful food of this country and finally we are able to enjoy many of the dishes we love.

Last night I made the most amazing Roasted Chicken with Potatoes from David Leite's cookbook. It makes my mouth water just thinking about it today. What I love about this book is that it is easy to follow and it wants you to stay home all day and just cook.

Finally a cookbook that would make any Portuguese person proud.
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