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The Trad Climber's Bible (Anglais) Broché – 2 juillet 2013


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Amazon.com: 15 commentaires
9 internautes sur 9 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Great book! 12 février 2014
Par Simon Johnson - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
This is an excellent book though not at all what I expected. This is not a technical manual, it reads like a collection of essays about various climbs and offers some fascinating insights into the logical yet slightly twisted mind required to be a great trad climber. Its easy to pick up and read in small chunks and includes many interesting side bars on the logistical and mental aspects of trad climbing.

If you are looking for a reference manual go get Freedom of the Hills and one of the many books on anchors.... then buy this book anyway. you wont regret it.
3 internautes sur 3 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5 stars. Almost deducted 3 stars because of that thing on John Long's head in the author photo. Get this unique book. 30 mars 2014
Par Tonya Kipple - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
I like the concept of a pseudo how-to book based on anecdotes with side bar elaborations on the lessons learned. That's how this book is setup. This approach is ideal for the topic, as well, i.e. "trad climbing", aka climbing big rocks without sport-bolted style protection, where the routes demand self reliance, experience, and good judgement. I say it is ideal because much of the trad deal involves having the right calibrated mindset. How much boldness is enough? When does excessive boldness become unsafe? How do you assess the risk factor of where you've found yourself?

Here you have two guys, both decades-and-decades-seasoned, who have done this stuff non-stop (okay, Long screwed around with unicycles and poodle breeding off and on, granted) for a long time, who can also both think and write about it in an instructive and entertaining way. Yes, for those who have been reading climbing stories for a while, there's a good deal of recycled John Long material in here - in spades (heh heh). But even with that, and even if the John Long style is beginning to wear on you a little after so many years, it hasn't been used in this way before. So it has value and it is welcome. Even better is that Croft's writing is well show cased here and there's plenty of it. His ability with the pen has been under rated and under utilized in my opinion, so enjoy this treasure trove. Be on the lookout for Peter's knack for pointing readers to the soul behind a story.

If you have little trad knowledge and experience, you're still going to want the more how-to kind of books about anchor building, gear placement, dynamics of falls, etc. There are plenty of those. You're also gonna want some instruction and mentoring probably. These guys had less opportunity for that in their day. The beauty of this book is you get to learn from their near misses, successes, and "failures". If you have a bunch of trad experience, get this book too. There are good nuggets and good healthy-perspective reinforcers in here.

I rate it five stars. I almost deducted three stars because of that thing on John Long's head in the author photo, but oh well, it's him I guess. Get this book. There isn't another one like it and there won't be another like it.
1 internautes sur 1 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
A magazine had a baby with a coffee table book 23 juillet 2014
Par K. C. Kuo - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
It's not really a guide or even a how-to bible, nor does it claim to be, so I have no issues with that. The book is a collection of stories interspersed with break-out boxes for tips and full-page pictures. This makes reading this "book" a chore because the useful information is contained in the boxes, but its context is provided by the stories. And the pictures just to make it cool and seem like it was worth the money. This is really like a giant climbing magazine put into a book. I read the first chapter and cannot be ADD enough to read the rest so it sits on the coffee table for the pictures.
1 internautes sur 1 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
Skip this one 27 octobre 2014
Par Joel Crawford - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
I preordered this book and think Trad Climbers Bible is a poor title for this book, I have a bookcase full of climbing books and this one was the biggest disappointment. For being the grad climbers bible there is way to little information about setting gear, creating anchors and route finding on longer routes.
Why? 27 novembre 2014
Par applewood - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
I sure thought this was going to be great, and at first glance it seemed so. But then I got to actually reading it. Or I should say tried to read it. The writing is full of hubris and self-aggrandizement, which oddly enough misses the essence of trad climbing and instead conjures up the feelings one might indulging in when it's all done and you're back in camp enjoying a doobie - that is if you're a teenager in the 70's.

About the only thing worth looking at are the pictures, some of which are spectacular, and many of which show some amazing rock. I guess the pics alone would have been enough for me - enough to inspire me to go out and learn and actually be able to climb in those places. That's pretty much how National Geographic and a handful of catalogues and books were for me in the early 70's. But I'm not sure how a book of slick stories about that romanticized era can add much more to the pics.

Like Long, I also poured over old how-to books when I was a teen, and then realized that climbing on real rock, often far from any hint of civilization, is a whole different and deeper way of living, and that the best way to discover this is with a few trusted friends. Climbing, especially trad climbing, is simply that sense of personal discovery in finding one's own way out on the sharp end. And it really doesn't get any better than that. Why complicate it with a "Bible"?
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