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Fotodiox adaptateur de monture d’objectif avec pissenlit AF mettre au point Confirmation puce, Contax/Yashica C/y cy objectif à Canon Canon EOS 1D, 1DS, Mark II, III, IV, 1DC, 1DX, D30, D60, 10D, 20D, 20DA, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 60DA, 5D, Mark II, Mark III, 7D, Rebel XT, XTi, XSi, T1, T1i, T2i, T3, T3i
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- De qualité supérieure Fotodiox adaptateur de monture d'objectif
- Entièrement métallique
- Adaptateur avec puce centrage confirmation intégré
- La mise au point à l'infini est garantie
- Être sous garantie de 24 mois
|Nos prix incluent l'éco-participation sur tous les produits concernés. Vous voulez recycler votre appareil électrique ou électronique gratuitement ? En savoir plus ici.
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Description du produit
La puce ajouté ("puce pissenlit") permet le centrage confirmation sur les boîtres EOS d'appareil numérique, qui aide le photographe met au point par endroits les plus sombres.
Meilleurs commentaires des clients
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De mma faute,pas de la leur,donc pas de remord ni de regret.
Commentaires client les plus utiles sur Amazon.com
I own two Fotodiox adapters already so I like the quality. I went with the EzFoto adapter the first time because it was cheaper and it was in a black finish (c'mon, the silver ring stands out!). EzFoto screwed me over when they sent me an m42-EOS adapter.
Now onto this one.
I love it. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. I was having a tough time getting it to mount onto my Canon 5D Mark 2, but I suppose I was doing something wrong as it was able to screw on properly shortly after.
I am using a Contax Zeiss Planar T* 1,7/50 that I am borrowing from my Contax RTS II and wanted to play around with it.
I have read no review on this yet so here it goes:
The default focus parameter is set to 27, which I found off. I toyed around with several values and found 23, 24, and 25 to be good points (though I wish you could use half values). Those values worked, but later on it would be off. I then realized that I did the setup for the AF chip in the wrong order. I went from setting the max aperture, to fine tuning the focus, and finally setting the focal length of the lens. Doing so made me have to re-do the focus tuning several times, leading me to believe that this adapter is requires more work than with just the regular non-AF confirm adapter. After doing each setup set in the order listed on the instructions again I found that the default focus parameter of 27 is just right.
-Follow guide in the exact order.
I have two complaints that dropped my rating to 4 stars. First, the instructions were at first almost incomprehensible. After several tries at understanding them, I did finally figure out what they were talking about, but at first they made no sense to me. I successfully programmed the chip for maximum aperture and focal length of the lens, but I did not have the patience to go through the trial-and-error process required to fine tune the focus sensor. Which is too bad, because my second complaint is that the focus chip is not accurate (not even close) in its default setting with this lens, so the focus alert is useless until I go through that somewhat daunting process.
So, I have 2 out of 3 of the programmable functions (maximum aperture and focal length), which basically allows the lens to be used in full manual mode with the light meter. The programming tells the camera what the maximum aperture value of the lens is, so it knows that, even when the camera aperture value is changed to match the shutter setting. This is what makes it possible for the internal light meter to give accurate readings as the shutter and aperture settings on the camera are changed in manual mode. Remember - the aperture settings on the camera and the lens are completely decoupled. The one does not know what the other is doing. The chip at least lets the camera know what the maximum (wide open) setting is on the lens (f1.7 in the case of my lens), and that allows the meter to take accurate readings.
If you do not program the chip, or if you buy an adapter without the chip, the camera must always remain set at its maximum aperture setting and must be used in Av mode for any automation of exposure. Of course, if you have an external light meter or are skilled at figuring correct shutter/aperture settings without a meter, then you can use manual mode just like you would on any manual exposure camera.
Because the lens will still work with the camera in aperture-priority mode and in manual mode without the light meter without any programming, the value of the chip - especially when the focus sensor isn't set right - is questionable. It depends on how important it is to you to be able to use the camera's meter in manual mode and to have the focus alert (and the patience to adjust it). I bought a second adapter without the chip, but for me having a fully functioning meter in manual mode is useful, so in future I think I will continue to buy the adapter with the chip.
For those who are completely unfamiliar with this sort of adapter, it should be obvious, but might not be, that an old lens with a manual aperture ring is never going to be as simple to use as an electronically operated lens. The camera is unable to read the aperture setting on the lens and the lens cannot be controlled by the aperture setting on the camera. So there is always going to be an extra step of manually setting the aperture on the lens. Focusing and metering are done with the lens wide open, and then it must be manually stopped down before taking the shot. In Av mode the lens can be stopped down and the camera will set the correct shutter speed as long as the camera is set to its maximum aperture setting. In manual mode, assuming the chip has been programmed, the meter will give the correct aperture to use, but then the lens must be manually stopped down to match that reading. This was all much easier on my film cameras, because the aperture, shutter and meter readings were all visible in the viewfinder. And the lens stayed wide open for focusing until the shutter was released. With this adapter (or any adapter), the lens aperture closes if you close down the aperture ring, so focusing and metering have to be done with the lens wide open, and then the lens must be closed down, which means taking your eye away from the viewfinder to see the setting on the lens.
So this is never going to be as quick and easy as an electronically controlled lens, nor as quick and easy as it was on a film camera with mechanical aperture control, but if you are willing to slow down, and shoot only in manual or Av modes, it works, and gives new life to some fine old lenses.