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I Love New York: Ingredients and Recipes. (Anglais) Relié – 9 avril 2013

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A Moment in New York Cuisine
We were drinking Manhattans in a Paris hotel bar when Daniel first told me that he wanted to write a book about New York cuisine. It was a statement prompted by an ongoing conversation the two of us had been having, reflecting on trips we had taken over the past couple of years, to Lyon, Paris, Tokyo, Piedmont, discussing how in each of these places, there is a collective pride in place—each city’s cuisine a celebration of its home. 

Yet in New York City, one of the greatest dining cities in the world, it has never been this way. Here, for the most part, our cuisine has always had a sense of place somewhere else in the world. Our city, so often referred to as a melting pot, is brimming with virtually every culture and tradition. As a result, you can get almost everything here simply by going to an ethnic neighborhood—that microcosm of a foreign country—or to a local distributor. It’s one of the coolest things about living in New York, but it can also be our downfall. Too often, because everything is available all the time, we forget to look at what’s growing in our backyard. In spite of the fact that New York is one of the greatest agricultural regions in the world, we have never fully developed our own identity.

So we decided to write this book—to play our part in the conversation to define “What is New York Cuisine?” and to join the growing local movement that has begun to take shape around us. 

We acknowledged early on that a local cuisine begins with its local ingredients. This book, then, we realized, had to be not only a collection of recipes but also a collection of the ingredients that comprise them and of the incredible men and women who work tirelessly to make their existence a reality. There was a lot we needed to learn. 
So Daniel and his team spent weeks driving around New York, visiting countless farmers who cultivate amazing ingredients, learning about their land and their crops, tasting their products. What he found along the way was that New York is full of lush farmland and dedicated farmers who are producing some extraordinary things. We found that their stories are compelling, their products outstanding, and their commitment to preserving the New York agricultural tradition exemplary. He chose to highlight the farms and ingredients that he had come to respect the most on his travels throughout the state. The more he learned about these farms and their farmers, the more we became interested in New York’s culinary trajectory throughout the ages.  

This took us beyond the ingredients, to the historical narratives, and more research—and we quickly discovered that although our city’s culinary identity is not quite intact, there are some wonderfully unique traditions that have existed over the years. We became obsessed with egg creams and soda fountains and Delmonico steak. We learned about their origins and their evolutions, about the legends that surrounded them and the people who invented them. An entire genre of food that was classically New York—smoked fish, potato chips, the oyster pan roast—all these dishes speak to this city’s history not only as America’s immigrant melting pot but also as a rich agricultural center. We decided to include these recipes and stories as well, because they had their cultural roots here in New York, but, perhaps even more so, because they had their agricultural roots here, too.

And so it was there in that Paris hotel bar sipping on that quintessential New York cocktail, reflecting on our relationship with New York and our budding fascination with it, that we decided to write this book. But it was through the process of writing it that we learned to fully understand the magnificence of our hometown—not only because of its lush farmland and the people that cultivate it, but also because its centuries-old culinary narrative has left an indelibl­­e imprint on American history. And we realized, in the humblest of terms, just as generations of immigrants and entrepreneurs had before us, that we love New York.
Nettle Toast with Lardo
Serves 4
4 cups nettles
2 teaspoons butter
1 teaspoon diced (1/8 inch) shallot
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 (1/4-inch-thick) bias-cut slices of baguette
1 cup ricotta
8 (1⁄16-inch thick) slices lardo 
Pickled Red Pearl Onions (page 501)
Ground black pepper
Wearing gloves, remove the stems from the nettles and discard. 

In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and sweat until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the nettles and sauté until wilted. Season with salt to taste and cool on paper towels.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the baguette slices and cook on one side until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and pat off excess oil on a paper towel. Top each toasted side of the baguette slices with ricotta and sautéed nettles. Cover with a slice of lardo and garnish with the pickled red pearl onions. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Revue de presse

As an observer of the New York food scene for over fifty years, I have witnessed (and enjoyed) the constantly evolving landscape of this city’s cuisine. Never has a focus on New York, though, been more exciting than right now as Daniel Humm and his contemporaries skillfully interpret local ingredients and legendary classics. It should be no surprise that this book is as beautiful as it is enjoyable, and as delectable as it is inspiring, given the history of the authors in their restaurants. Their passion for New York and their loyalty to local suppliers of superb ingredients shows throughout the pages, as does the respect and inspiration Daniel Humm exhibits in everything he serves. The result of all of this is a wonderful cookbook full of subtly intriguing recipes that are well within the abilities of any halfway experienced home cook.
—Mimi Sheraton, food journalist and former restaurant critic of the New York Times and other publications

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Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Pleins d'idées !!! De très belles photos et surtout une très belle présentation de ces producteurs qui ont fourni leurs ingrédients
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Amazon.com: HASH(0x913ffa50) étoiles sur 5 32 commentaires
27 internautes sur 31 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x90fe521c) étoiles sur 5 Superb. Not just a cookbook. A lavish volume on New York food. 9 avril 2013
Par D. Graves - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié
This is not simply a cookbook with recipes native to New York; it is much, much more. It is a lavishly-illustrated, comprehensive (over 500 pages), exploration of both the food ingredients native to New York and the myriad recipes derived from them. The authors run the renowned Eleven Madison Park restaurant in Manhattan and have a special enthusiasm for - and expertise in - New York cuisine. They start with the ingredients available from over 50 farms in the greater-NYC area, including a fascinating history of farming traditions in the area over the past centuries. Ingredients are not limited to farms and are also obtained from the land, sea and air around New York: venison and ham, black sea bass and trout, chicken and duck.

The recipes derived from these ingredients showcase the depth and breadth of ethnic influence on what is now considered 'New York' cuisine: Dutch, German, English, Jewish, Asian, Italian and other ethnicities all gave to New York meals, entrees, snacks, desserts and drinks now associated with the area. Many of these recipes with New York roots are well known: Manhattan Clam Chowder, the Egg Cream, and the Bloody Mary, for example. Others are lesser known: Clam Toast? Cranberry Bread Pudding? Beer-Battered Apples? Duck Fat French Fries? Common and simple favorites are also here: the lobster roll, roasted chestnuts, and so on. Vegetarians will also be pleased, with many delicious-sounding salads and a pasta dish I'd really like to make, 'Butternut Squash Tortellini with Sage Brown Butter'.

Though some may consider this a fairly expensive cookbook, it is not only amazingly comprehensive [13 different types of vinaigrette alone (Brown Butter Vinaigrette sounds pretty good though I may pass on the Trout Roe Vinaigrette)], it has an impressive presentation of recipes, etc. as well, with high-quality photographs throughout and easy-to-read recipe instructions. It is a beautiful book - and huge (512 pages and over 5 pounds).

If you are hoping for a true compendium of New York recipes, unfortunately this is not it. There are curious - and glaring - omissions in the book: The Waldorf Salad is far more famous and quintessentially New York than the 20 salads that are included; the Reuben is New York's most famous sandwich (or so I thought); Eggs Benedict doesn't appear; neither does New York City's greatest contribution to Asian-American cuisine, General Tso's Chicken, which has now even become popular in China itself; Vichyssoise is not from France, it was invented at the Ritz-Carlton in New York - and also does not appear; Lobster Newberg is nowhere to be found either. So, the volume cannot be described as the authoritative compendium of New York cuisine. Aside from this, it is a wonderful book and deserves 5 stars: the authors never state that they are presenting an all-inclusive collection of New York recipes and it would be unfair to knock a star off for that; it was simply my hope, upon seeing the prodigious size of the book, that it would include these famous New York dishes.
21 internautes sur 25 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x90fe5648) étoiles sur 5 I love to read it! A lot of complex dishes, a few easier ones. 12 avril 2013
Par Naomi Manygoats - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
After reading the first review posted of I Love NY, I rushed to buy it. I was prepared that these were not what we think of as 'classic' NY recipes. I was very excited to see that the book revolved around local, seasonal produce, and also had a great deal to say about the local farmers. So I was expecting a roughly old-school telephone-book sized volume, with gorgeous photos, and imaginative recipes from renowned restaurant chefs. In all of that, I was not disappointed. The book literally takes my breath away with reading about the farms, looking at the pictures, and reading the recipes. I can honestly say I love the book, and am happy to have it. When I read that the authors really wanted cooks to jump in the kitchen and cook from the book, I was all set to do just that. It is only in attempting to cook the actual recipes, that I have issues.

I live near Austin, TX, a fairly far cry from NYC. Still, we are teaming with local goat dairies, natural beef, and a long growing season with many wonderful organic farms. I was fairly confident that I would have no problem cooking from this book, especially since I just secured a certificate from a cooking school, after being a home cook for decades. A lot of the ingredients are extremely specific (onion blossoms, fennel fronds, nettles, quail eggs, garlic chive flowers, etc.), but the dishes should work ok in most cases without them or with substitutions.

There are nearly 150 'main' recipes, from 55 categories (Apples, Asparagus...Eggs, Fluke, Foie Gras...Parsnips...Sheep's Milk....Walnuts) but almost every 'recipe' is actually composed of several component recipes (many can be used with other things), so really there are likely around 500 recipes by my estimate. All of the multiple components are of course, what would make the finished dish extraordinary in flavor. I mainly try to cook seasonal, plant based food, but don't mind a bit of animal protein in for some flavor. I did have difficulty finding many purely vegetable or fruit based dishes, other than desserts. The 'Roasted Carrots with Wheat Berries and Cumin' for example, got me really excited. However, it has 5 components to make (plus a sneaky one on another page), then additional instructions to finish the dish (as most of these dishes have). The components are: Carrot-Duck Crumble (which uses 1-1/2 lbs. duck skin, that the butcher should grind for you, or you do it yourself, you need to render the fat and save it for another component), Duck Fat-Roasted Carrots, Wheat Berries (with Lemon Vinaigrette from another page), Cumin Oil, Carrot Sauce, then Carrot tops and finishing instructions. Ok, so that would be one side dish for my family for dinner. Now what to go with it, provided I could find duck skin? There are a few simple, one component dishes. Like the Oven-Baked Asparagus. I am a bit sad that the recipes might not come out quite as flavorful as they should be, since a lot of the fresh produce/ meat/ cheese is so specific and local to NY. The Chocolate Truffle Tart looks amazing, and I hope that if I can't find Mast Brother's Blend Chocolate it will work ok with a substitute. There are some additional recipes in the back, under 'Basic Recipes' for things like Brown Butter, Beef Broth, and Corn Pudding.

A downfall in the book? Perhaps it was lack of space, but a brief bit at the top, right under the recipe title, that tells you a bit about the dish would be very helpful. The first recipe in the book for example, Caramelized Apple Brioche (Brioche, Apple Honey, Apple Granite, Apple Spread, Lemon Syrup, and To Finish) had me scratching my head trying to figure out why I needed the Apple Honey, which was not mentioned in the text, just in the ingredients for the Apple Spread. But a brief explanation about what the dish entails, and how it comes together, would save the reader some confusion.

Bottom Line? This is without a doubt, an amazing book in every way. It is perfect for the armchair cook to read, and would be great fun for a group of friends who love to cook to get together and cook from. If you live in NY, you simply must have it, you can actually buy all of these amazing ingredients! Is it an updated 'New York Cookbook' by Molly O'Neill (which I love and actually have cooked from a lot)? Absolutely not. Will I cook from it? Probably not much. I just don't have the time, energy, or money to track down all of the ingredients for the components, and to actually make them, by myself, along with other dishes, for a meal that my family will scarf down in a half-hour. I will try some of the recipes for a dinner with friends, when I have a lot of time to work on it. Also, some 'components' take 48 hours or more to prepare, (eg. the Labne in the Wheat Berry Salad with Yogurt, Cucumber, and Melon). The Grilled Green Onions with Buttermilk Dressing looks amazing, the Parsnip Cake is unique and totally do-able, and looks wonderful. The Potatoes in baked Puff Pastry will be the first thing I will try.

I think the people who would love this book the most, are those who simply love reading cookbooks, gardeners who cook, and professional chefs, who have the staff, and time, to locate the ingredients and prepare the food properly. But even casual cooks can find a few killer recipes that will surely be fantastic. Do look very closely at the preview of the book, and you can see the components, etc. and see if you might like it. I love it and will be reading it and enjoying it for a long time. I now want to visit NY to sample some of their local produce for myself. The photo on page 272 of the elderly man with the baby lamb has to be one of the most moving photos I have ever seen. I like it more with each reading. Is it perfect? What book ever really is? By today's standards, Mastering the Art of French Cooking would be slammed for lack of photos to inspire....
7 internautes sur 8 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x90fe5990) étoiles sur 5 Beautifully Written Love Letter to NY 3 novembre 2013
Par Katy Sullivan - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
This book is a beautifully written love letter to New York. It is a must have for anyone that has a connection to New York, even if they don't cook as it highlights local farms and the people who run them. The recipes in this book are all do-able even for the home cook. When I bought this book, I was thinking I could give it as a gift to a friend but once I looked through it I decided it was too beautiful to give away and I should keep it for myself. I highly recommend this book and think it's a bargain for $35.
4 internautes sur 4 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x90fe5888) étoiles sur 5 Beautiful book with a little miss 11 février 2014
Par Choi, Khloe - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I absolutely love the concept and design of this book. A good amount of delicate and rich recipes with local produces. However, it was a bit disappointing to find some inconsistency between ingredients and instructions like missing a whole portion of one ingredient in the instruction (flour for clam chowder) or using olive oil instead of canola when there was only canola oil in the ingredients etc. And this is not a kind step by step cookbook. So it could be challenging but full of awesome ideas for special meals.
Par Wild Thing Foodie - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I bought this instead of his Eleven Madison Park cookbook. Glad I did. It compliments my New York cookbook that I bought years ago. Quite an undertaking, but glad to read it through the eyes of Daniel Humm. As it is will be used more of a coffee table book, I wouldn't pay full price for it. Glad I bought it heavily discounted from a second seller.
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