MakerBot Replicator 2
Nous ne savons pas quand cet article sera de nouveau approvisionné ni s'il le sera.
- Build Volume: 28.5 x 15.3 x 15.5 cm
- Layer Resolution Settings: High 100 microns Medium 270 microns Low 340 microns
- Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm [0.069 in]
- Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm [0.015 in]
- Chassis: Powder coated steel
Spécifications pour ce produit
|Device Type||3D printer|
|EAN||0817913010947 , 0640213047838 , 0885909771400|
|Maximum Print Resolution Black and White||0,1mm|
|Poids du Produit||998 grams|
|Type de media||x3g|
|UPC||640213047838 , 885909771400 , 817913010947|
|Volume du produit||1 Cubic Centimeters|
Détails sur le produit
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Sécurité du produit
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Description du produit
Imprimante 3D MakerBot Replicator 2 : L'imprimante 3D créative pour les utilisateurs professionnels L'imprimante 3D Replicator 2 de MakerBot est le must absolu en matière d'impression 3D de bureau, mondialement reconnue et plébiscitée par tous les professionnels de l'impression 3D. Avec une capacité de résolution de 100 microns et un énorme volume de réalisation de 6 718 centimètres cubiques, l'imprimante 3D Replicator 2 de MakerBot est l'outil le plus facile, le plus rapide et le plus abordable pour réaliser des modèles de qualité professionnelle. Ses domaines d'applications sont multiples : prototypages ingénieurs, designers, créateurs, modélistes, mécaniciens, architectes etc... Sa seule limite est votre imagination. Caractéristiques techniques : Dimensions physiques : - Sans le devideur : 49 x 32 x 5310 cm - Avec le devideur : 49 x 42 x 5310 cm Boite de transport : 5840 x 6050 x 4170 cm Poids : 126 kg Systeme électrique : - Entree : 100 a 240 V - 2 A 50 a 60 Hz Alimentation électrique requise : 24 VCC a 625 A Connectivité : USB carte SD (fournie) Châssis : acier traité par electrophorèse Structure : panneaux en PVC Plate-forme de réalisation : polycarbonate Roulements XYZ : résistants à l'usure bronze infusé à l'huile Moteurs pas-a-pas : angle de pas de 18 avec micropas de 1/16 Technologie d'impression : fabrication par filament fondu Volume de réalisation : 285 cm de long x 153 cm de large x 155 cm de haut Paramètres de résolution des couches : Fine : 100 microns / Moyenne : 200 microns / Epaisse : 300 microns Précision du positionnement : XY : 11 microns / Z : 25 microns Diamètre du filament : 175 mm - Diamètre de la buse : 04 mm Ensemble logiciel : Bundle 20 de MakerWa
Commentaires client les plus utiles sur Amazon.com
That said, my purchase of the Makerbot Replicator 2 was an impulse buy. I just got a wild hair up mabutt and clicked the “Add to Cart”, then removed it, then added it back several times during the day. Once Amazon’s site displayed the message, “Order in the next 6 seconds and get it by Friday 14 March 2014”, I went ahead and purchased it because at that point, it was less a desire for a 3D Printer and more of a battle to see if I could add it to my cart and check out in 6 seconds. (I succeeded, BTW. Curse you Jeff Bezos for making it so easy!)
Fast forward to Friday the 14th of March when it arrived.
The unit arrived in a well-packed cardboard box. The first thing one sees when opening the box is the Owner’s manual. It sits in a recessed cut-out in a large cardboard piece that sits on top of everything else in the box. Removing that cardboard “layer” exposes the 3D Printer itself. There was plenty of protection for the unit, and its internal parts (the rods and belts and gears) were secured via plastic, snap-on bars and several large, thick zip ties.
Assembly & Setup:
Since the first thing you see when opening the box is the owner’s manual I got the distinct impression the manufacturer wanted me to actually read it prior to assembly and setup. How dare they insult my geekiness! (I did follow the instructions because breaking a $2500 printer trumps gaining a few geek points) Assembly of the unit was painless and straightforward. The manual covered just about every step of the process with the only exception being “when” to connect the USB cable from the printer to the computer. (This is, btw, just an option…you do not “need” to ever connect it to a computer)
Note on PLA vs. ABS Plastic
PLA plastic is a biodegradable plastic filament made from corn or some crap like that. Printing with PLA plastic is a bit easier than ABS since its melt behavior is a bit more predictable, or so I gather from reading on various sites. It is also stronger than ABS Plastic but there is a drawback... it’s more brittle than ABS Plastic. When ABS parts are repeatedly "bent", they flex back and forth until they eventually fail. PLA Plastic will snap rather than bend and eventually fail. I’ve heard it said by people with more sensitive noses than mine that PLA Plastic, when printing, smells faintly like pancakes. ABS plastic smells like, well, nasty, old burning plastic. We all know that smell so if I’m going to spend 5+hours printing out some complex part I’d rather smell flapjacks than some toxic, puke-inducing ABS smell any day…
Initial Power Up:
Powering on the unit for the first time runs what I call the “First Run Start-Up Script”. It walks you through the process of leveling the build plate (where the printed items sit) and feeding in the filament to the extruder head, and printing a test piece.
Leveling the Build Plate:
Leveling the build plate is the single most important part of owning a 3D Printer. If you screw this part up, you’re going to have a bad day, mmkay? Go back and read the previous sentence again. Twice. Leveling the build plate ensures the extruder head prints the PLA Plastic in just the right amount. If the build plate is too close to the extruder, the PLA plastic cannot be extruded. If it’s too far away, the printed plastic is too “stringy” and does not adhere to the layer underneath. There is also another reason it is so important to level the build plate. The build plate is created from Acrylic. Even though it is relatively thick it can, and will, warp over time from being heated in one area while remaining cold in others. Some may see this cost saving step as a detriment, but I do not. It’s simply the laws of economics. Some corners had to be cut to keep the cost affordable. This was one of those cut corners. There are glass build plates available for ~$99-$109 depending on where you buy it and I do recommend purchasing one if you’re going to put the printer through heavy use cycles. I also recommend using the mfg.-supplied blue painter’s tape on the build plate. It makes removing parts easier and protects the surface of the build plate. I also recommend purchasing about 20 of these strips (less than $30 at the mfg.’s site)
Printing your first piece:
Printing one of the designs from the included SD card the printer ships with is probably the best way to see if the printer is properly setup and operational. I recommend the forever bracelet and the nut & bolt. Both put the printer through its paces and provide you with an idea what they are capable of doing.
The software is not included. You must go to the mfg site and download the software. It is basic print-only software. It does not allow you to “create” or “edit” files. You can print it or save it in a different format.
3D CAD Software:
There are many different kinds of free 3D CAD software out there so I will not cover all of them. I haven’t touched a CAD program since 1990 so I am approaching this as someone who is brand new to CAD and just wants to get started making things, rather than getting an engineering degree before I even power the printer up. I will cover only the ones I tried, and I my “rating” of them is, at best, subjective and based on my personal learning curve…YMMV, obviously, depending on your experiences with CAD software.
1 – Blender (Freeware)
Pro: Very powerful! Tons and tons of options and capabilities!
Con: Overly complicated for the “Novice” user, in my opinion. To me, it was a PITA compared to the other CAD programs, TBH. I could print everything I ever wanted to print using the other programs below before I could master this software enough to design & print 1 item.
2 – 123Make/Design (Free online version. Design stuff right in your browser!)
Pro: Surprisingly easy to get started with and create stuff quickly.
Con: It sometimes doesn’t want to let you download what you created. It’s not so much a case where it wants you to upgrade to the premium account…the wwb site just has some "eccentric" idiosyncrasies you must deal with, though they are tolerable enough that I often use this program.
3 -- TinkerCAD(Free online version. Design stuff right in your browser!)
Pro: Also surprisingly easy to use and also able to quickly get stuff created.
Con: Not “quite” as powerful as the 123 software, though it is close enough that I use it as much as the 123 software. I use this about 50% of the time and the 123 software the other 50%. Often times, I'll create in this program, then "tweak" the design in 123 since it allows a little more fine-grain control.
CAD Software Summary:
In case you haven’t guessed by now, I use #’s 2 & 3 most often. When I’m done with what I’m designing, I save/download the file as a .stl file and import that into the Makerbot print software. I could also copy the .stl file to the SD card and put it into the SD Card reader on the printer and print out the part without using the computer at all. (In case I want to get some gaming in while watching my print)
I have had 2 prints fail. In each case, however, the failure was my design, not a defect in the printer.
Failure 1 – In the first instance, I started printing a part and realized that, because of my poor design, there would be an un-supported section that would most likely fail, so I stopped the print. (Think of “printing” a wall with a doorway…if you printed it lying down, as a flat surface, it’d look like a flat square with a missing section, where the doorway is located. If you print it oriented vertically, the “arch” of the doorway is not supported and the plastic would dip down and ruin the print, so I stopped the print process about 1 minute into the print so I could design in support for the archway of the door)
Failure 2 – In the second failure, it was due to my forgetfulness. I have an Ultra USB 3.0 USB to SATA Adapter so I created a USB 3.0 Docking Station to put it in so I can hot swap my spare SSDs. In the design phase, I realized it needed an internal width of 1mm larger than I initially drew it... When I went back into the program to widen it, I got sidetracked with adding some bells and whistles to the design and completely forgot to widen it, lol.
Sources of 3D Objects:
Thingiverse is a major repository of 3D Designs you can access and download to print or modify. There are thousands and thousands of designs available and you may find what you want to print has already been created, thereby saving you much time and effort. Additionally, there are many conversion programs available that convert one file type into another so even if the item you want is in a different format, you may be able to export or convert it to a language the Replicator 2 can print
My impressions after having used it for four days:
I’m happy with the purchase thus far. And, I’m also cognizant of the fact these printers require maintenance and replacement parts on a fairly regular basis…which increases their cost of ownership. It’s something you should keep in mind as well unless you have $2500 to just throw away.
I’m having a lot of fun designing and making things, and I’m learning CAD skills as I go along. The more stuff I make, the more I think, “Gee, I want to make one of those XXXX too!!!”.
I started with only the goal of printing some fan grills, case parts, and air ducts for my computer. My list has grown to 60+ items I now want to make, and the list keeps growing and growing and growing…This is a good sign because it means I plan on using the heck out of this printer…and I’d better be using the heck out of this printer for the price I paid…
The software is super easy to use, and a breeze to get the build set up. In our builds, the best results are obtained from using the optional raft. This seems to eliminate problems with needing perfect adhesion between the first layer and the build plate, as well as any imperfections in the build plate or the precise leveling of it. I like to use the blue painters tape, which makes getting the raft / model off the plate easier, as well as prevents scratching up the plate.
The machine is much quieter that expected and there is no discernible smell--both of which I was expecting. I was originally planning to have the machine in the lab, but after realizing how civilized it was, I made a home for it in a bookcase in my office. With the bookcase doors closed, the machine is only mildly audible when in operation--it's no problem to have a conference call using a speakerphone in the same room, so that's a nice bonus that I didn't expect.
Some minor issues: We have occasionally seen some odd support geometry that left some cantilevered sections without proper support, and thus with a droopy layer or two. This problem is easily fixed by reorienting the model a bit, or simply a bit of sanding, depending on the model. I would prefer to be have some visibility and control over the support structure, but now that I've had a bit of practice I know better what to expect, so with a bit of thought in the build layout/orientation, the models usually come out very clean.
We did find that there are some differences between filaments. Using the SainSmart black material, we had a number of builds that failed due to extrusion issues, especially when using the high resolution settings. We mostly used the default temperature / speed settings, so it's possible that with some optimization we would get better results. However, using the Zen white material, we have gotten consistently great results at every resolution. The parts look better, they don't fail, they are easy to remove cleanly from the raft, and the supports come off cleanly. I recall hearing somewhere that the color may make a difference--I haven't tried Sain white or Zen black yet, so at this point I'm not sure if it's color or brand that is the key variable.
The bottom line is that with the right material and a bit of care in setting up the build (mainly for models that require supports), we are getting consistently great looking models with no hassle. We are super pleased with the Replicator 2 and highly recommend it.