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The New Book of Middle Eastern Food: The Classic Cookbook, Expanded and Updated, with New Recipes and Contemporary Variations on Old Themes (Anglais) Relié – 26 septembre 2000

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Yogurt

In every Middle Eastern household, the making of yogurt is a regular activity -- at least it used to be. With a little experience one lears the rhythm of preparation and the exact warmth required to turn milk into yogurt. The actual preparation is extremely easy, but the right conditions as necessary for success. If these are fulfilled, the "magic" cannot fail.

Yogurt is an essential part of the Meiddle Eastern diet. In al-Baghdad's medieval manual it was referred to a "Persian milk." In Iran today it is known as mast, in Turkey as yogurt. Syrians and Lebanese call it laban, Egyptionas laban zabadi, whle Aremenians refer ito it as madzoon. In parts of the Middle East, as in the Balkans, yogurt is believed by some people to have medicinal and therapeutic qualities. Longevity and a strong constitution are attributed to a daily consumption.

More recently the Western world discovered the healthful qualities of yogurt, but it is too often restricted to a minor role as a dessert, usually sweetened or synthetically flavored. Yogurt has yet to be allowed the versatility it enjoys in the Middle East, where it is, in turn, a hot or cold soup, a salad, a marinade for meat, or the basic liquid element in a meat-and-vegetable dish. The West has still to discover the vast number of dishes which are refreshed, soothed, and glorified when accompanied by yogurt, and the splendid drink called ayran or abdug, which is a mixture of yogurt and water.

The best yogurt I have ever eaten was in Turkey. It was made with water buffalo's milk and was thick and deliciously rich and creamy. A good second is the thick sheep's-milk yogurt product of Greece, which has been drained of its whey.

To Make Yogurt


If yogurt is to be adopted as an important element in cookery, it is worth learning to make it at home. All sorts of equipment have been recommended as being required: cake pans lined with padding, feather cushions, thermometers, different-sized bottles, jars, corks, tops, to name but a few. Commercial firms sell sets of equipment, but you can do perfectly well without them. All that is needed is a large earthenware or glass bowl, a plate to cover it entirely or plastic wrap, and a small woolen blanket -- I use two shawls.

The proportions are1 heaping tablespoon of starter or activator (culture of the bacteria bulgaris) or fresh. Live yogurt (I use ordinary, commercial plain whole-milk yogurt) to each quart of whole milk. If you increae the quantity of milk, increase that of the starter accordingly, but do not use too much of the starter, or the new batch of yogurt will be excessively sour.

Bring the milk to the boil in a large pan. When the froth rises, lower the heat and let the milk barely simmer for about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, and allow the milk to cool to the point where you can barely dip your fingers in and leave them there while you count to ten. Ten is the tradtitional count, but the milk must still be hot enough to sting. If you have a thermometer, the temperature should be 106-109 degress F. If the milk is much cooler or hotter than this, the yogurt is likely to fail.

Remove any skin that has formed on the surface of the milk. Beat the acticator or plain yogurt in a large glass or earthnware bowl until it is quite liquid. Add a few tablespoons of the hot milk, one at a time, beating vigorously, between all the additions. Then add the rest of the milk slowly, beating constantly, until thoroughly mixed.

Cover the bowl with a large plate or with plastic wrap. Wrap the whole bowl in a wooledn blanket or shawl and leave it undisturbed in a warm place, such as an airing cupboard, for at least 8 hous or overnight. It should then be ready, thick like a creamy custard. Do not leave the bowl in the warmth too long., or the yogurt will become too sour.

As soon as the yogurt is ready, you can cool it in the refrigerator. It will keep for a week, but it is preferable to make a new batch every 4 days, using some of the previous one as an actrivator.This will ensure a cconstant supply of sweet, fresh-tasting yogurt.

Présentation de l'éditeur

In this updated and greatly enlarged edition of her Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden re-creates a classic. The book was originally published here in 1972 and was hailed by James Beard as "a landmark in the field of cookery"; this new version represents the accumulation of the author's thirty years of further extensive travel throughout the ever-changing landscape of the Middle East, gathering recipes and stories.

Now Ms. Roden gives us more than 800 recipes, including the aromatic variations that accent a dish and define the country of origin: fried garlic and cumin and coriander from Egypt, cinnamon and allspice from Turkey, sumac and tamarind from Syria and Lebanon, pomegranate syrup from Iran, preserved lemon and harissa from North Africa. She has worked out simpler approaches to traditional dishes, using healthier ingredients and time-saving methods without ever sacrificing any of the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture that distinguish the cooking of this part of the world.

Throughout these pages she draws on all four of the region's major cooking styles:
        -        The refined haute cuisine of Iran, based on rice exquisitely prepared and embellished with a range of meats, vegetables, fruits, and nuts
        -        Arab cooking from Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan--at its finest today, and a good source for vegetable and bulgur wheat dishes
        -        The legendary Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, wheat and rice dishes, yogurt salads, savory pies, and syrupy pastries
        -        North African cooking, particularly the splendid fare of Morocco, with its heady mix of hot and sweet, orchestrated to perfection in its couscous dishes and tagines

From the tantalizing mezze--those succulent bites of filled fillo crescents and cigars, chopped salads, and stuffed morsels, as well as tahina, chickpeas, and eggplant in their many guises--to the skewered meats and savory stews and hearty grain and vegetable dishes, here is a rich array of the cooking that Americans embrace today. No longer considered exotic--all the essential ingredients are now available in supermarkets, and the more rare can be obtained through mail order sources (readily available on the Internet)--the foods of the Middle East are a boon to the home cook looking for healthy, inexpensive, flavorful, and wonderfully satisfying dishes, both for everyday eating and for special occasions.

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Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Ce livre n'est pas un livre c'est une Bible à consulter et à reconsulter. J'avais la première version qui est maintenant dans un état lamentable tellement je l'ai utilisée et j'ai été enchanté de redécouvrir la nouvelle version qui est également une mise à jour. Le contenu n'est pas seulement pour des recettes mais aussi pour l'histoire de la Gastronomie moyen-orientale qui mélange les faits avec les anecdotes et les petites histoires comme celles de Goha (le naif égyptien).
Les recettes ont été mises à jour car tout à été traduit en grammes et litres et non plus en onces et pintes (bien que ces données soient toujours présentes pour les anglo-saxons).
Pour ceux qui apprécient la cuisine du Moyen-Orient ce livre doit être constamment à vos cotés avec une place spéciale dans votre cuisine.
2 commentaires 3 personnes ont trouvé cela utile. Avez-vous trouvé ce commentaire utile ? Oui Non Commentaire en cours d'envoi...
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Attention, pas d'images pour les amateurs, ce qui est à mon avis un signe de livres de cuisine de qualité...!
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Commentaires client les plus utiles sur Amazon.com (beta) (Peut contenir des commentaires issus du programme Early Reviewer Rewards)

Amazon.com: 4.3 étoiles sur 5 124 commentaires
4 internautes sur 4 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
3.0 étoiles sur 5 Good Food - Intermediate Cookung Knowledge Required 20 décembre 2016
Par Amber Ronzitti - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
Expects you to make a lot of judgement calls.
Meals are delicious if you make some adjustments.

Such as, recipe told me to add water "to cover" but did not specify how much water or how completely to cover the ingredients. I eneed up starting low and added more water down the line.

Meal also took about 2x as long to cook as estimated.
9 internautes sur 10 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
1.0 étoiles sur 5 No effort for Kindle edition 9 octobre 2015
Par Madison Bell - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
A beautifully written book, with tons of recipes and stories that are fun to read and delicious to follow. Unfortunately, the transcription for the Kindle edition is far from beautiful, and in some cases hinders the possibility of following the recipes. Spacing is inconsistent, words are split up, 1/2 is sometimes written as h, etc. Get the book, but by the print edition. It's clear that no human, or even mildly sophisticated computer program, looked at the digital version before slapping a price on it.
265 internautes sur 266 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 all my fav middle eastern recipes! 25 mars 2003
Par rtistelle - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I lived in the Middle East for 3 years and grew to love Egyptian, Turkish, Moroccan, and Arabian foods. I ordered 5 middle eastern cookbooks including this Roden volume(to add to my collection which includes 3 others) when I ordered a tagine cooker from Amazon. I could have only ordered this one! It has everything: explanations of ingredients, easy ways to cook and serve the dishes, and my fav recipes.
I was so surprised to see its comprehensiveness. It had the wonderful snake pastry (snake shape, not ingredient!) of Morocco, and gave ingredient amounts befitting a party crowd. Favorite tagine lamb dishes, boreks, kibbie (kibbeh), yogurtlu-steeped meat dishes called to mind many delightful authentic culinary experiences. I even laughed to read both stories I had been told about the dish which killed the priest. And I learned new ones, ie the Sultan's dish story.
I was also delighted by the tone of the book, comments, adjustments for the modern kitchen, and the stories included in the pages. Mullah Nazruddhin Hoja tales have been a standard in my household, and the inclusion of some of his snippets are being relished.
A Persian poet once said: If I have but two dollars, let me use one to buy a loaf of bread to feed my body and the other for a hyacinth to feed my soul. This cookbook has both cuisine - sensual Arabic foods for the body and stuff for the soul.
Need one Middle Eastern cookbook? This is the one! Highly recommended.
16 internautes sur 18 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
3.0 étoiles sur 5 Kindle version has mechanical problems! 14 septembre 2014
Par Fancy Free - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
I'm returning this cookbook because of major mechanical problems, as if the text was prepared by optical character recognition software applied after the hard copy was scanned. Ingredients run together on many recipes I looked at, instead of one ingredient per line. Words that look like typos, recipe names appearing randomly in the middle of a recipe as if they're from the running footer appearing within the text... Here's just one random example:
One of the recipe variations says
- Add 3 medium-sized cooked potatoes, cut
- into niprpc
- Fry 2 sliced zucchini ...
Huh?
If these mechanical problems ever get fixed, let me know.
1 internautes sur 1 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
4.0 étoiles sur 5 An excellent manual for Middle Eastern cooking 11 mars 2015
Par Jason - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
This vast collection of exhaustively researched recipes, accompanied with informative and often charming historical anecdotes and stories of the author's childhood in Egypt and travels in the region, is a must for anyone with an interest in Middle Eastern or North African food. Recipes are easy to follow, and make an effort to provide ingredients and methods that are feasible for the modern Western cook. I would have appreciated more illustrations, particularly pictures of at least some of the dishes. However, that will certainly not stop me from cooking many of these great recipes!
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