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Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume par [Herman, Barbara]
Publicité sur l'appli Kindle

Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume Format Kindle

5.0 étoiles sur 5 1 commentaire client

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Longueur : 288 pages Composition améliorée: Activé Page Flip: Activé
Langue : Anglais

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Descriptions du produit

Présentation de l'éditeur

Let Scent and Subversion take you for a whiff on the wild side of 20th century perfume.

Perfume has been -- and continues to be -- subversive. By playing with gender conventions, highlighting the ripe smells of the human body, or celebrating queer and louche identities, 20th-century perfume broke free from the assumptions of the prior century, and became a largely unrecognized part of the social and style revolutions of the modern era.

In Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume, Barbara Herman continues her irreverent, poetic, and often humorous analysis of vintage perfumes and perfume ads that she began on her popular blog The book features descriptions of over 300 perfumes, starting with Fougère Royale (1882) and ending with Demeter's Laundromat (2000).

Lavishly illustrated with more than 100 vintage perfume ads, it will also regale you with essays on scent appreciation, a glossary of important perfume terms and ingredients, and tips on how to begin your own foray into vintage and contemporary perfume. Herman also looks to the future through interviews with scent visionaries such as odor expert and "professional provocateur" Sissel Tolaas, punk perfumer Antoine Lie, and Martynka Wawrzyniak, the artist behind "Smell Me," the world's first olfactory self-portrait.

The perfect book for perfume aficionados (aka "perfumistas") as well as connoisseurs of modern fashion and design, feminist and LGBTQ historians, and fans of vintage advertising.

Détails sur le produit

  • Format : Format Kindle
  • Taille du fichier : 4814 KB
  • Nombre de pages de l'édition imprimée : 288 pages
  • Editeur : Lyons Press; Édition : 1 (5 novembre 2013)
  • Vendu par : Amazon Media EU S.à r.l.
  • Langue : Anglais
  • Synthèse vocale : Activée
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  • Word Wise: Non activé
  • Composition améliorée: Activé
  • Moyenne des commentaires client : 5.0 étoiles sur 5 1 commentaire client
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Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Excellent ouvrage pour tous les amoureux de l'histoire du parfum. On redécouvre au fil des pages les parfums mythiques, les parfums oubliés et bien sur tous leurs secrets...
Je recommande !
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Commentaires client les plus utiles sur (beta) HASH(0x99093390) étoiles sur 5 31 commentaires
27 internautes sur 27 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x990a7f0c) étoiles sur 5 A fantastic resource for vintage perfume lovers 5 novembre 2013
Par Ro - Publié sur
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
Barbara Herman's outstanding book is a compendium of perfume reviews similar to Turin/Sanchez's "The Guide," only the reviews in this book are primarily for vintage scents, plus this book contains many charming pictures of old-school perfume ads. Vintage perfume lovers will find that the gang's all here with reviews of classics like Chanel No. 5 and Shalimar, to slightly more obscure groundbreakers like Tabac Blonde, Iris Gris, and Bandit. And drugstore classics, discontinued lovelies, and rare gems are included too, with scents like Toujours Moi, Djedi, Jovan Mink & Pearls, Allysa Ashley Musk oil, Loulou, Poeme, and so many more. The book's lengthy review section includes fragrances beginning in the 1800s all the way to the year 2000.

You will know Barbara Herman from her popular vintage perfume blog, Yesterday's Perfume, and her mouthwatering descriptions and delightful turn of phrase are captured beautifully in the book's reviews. For example, this is from her review of Balmain's Vent Vert: "It sounds off with a bitter, verdant blast of galbanum like a trumpet's call, and shortly thereafter other flower notes run and swirl onto the stage like a ballet dancer in a production of Nijinsky's paganistic 'The Rite of Spring.'"
Gorgeous, such an evocative description...

The book also includes appendices including interviews with people in the perfume industry, a guide to animalic ingredients, a glossary of terms, and various other articles placed as bookends to the meat of the book, the reviews. As a vintage perfume wearer and lover, I'm so happy to have this resource. I strongly recommended it!
31 internautes sur 33 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x990af174) étoiles sur 5 Excellent Resource for Vintage Perfumery 13 novembre 2013
Par Little Stevo - Publié sur
Format: Relié
This book is like Turin/Sanchez's Perfume only for vintage enthusiasts. And without the riaaaaaaaow! cattiness. It does what this kind of book SHOULD do - in spades: it makes me crave scent and want to revel in its storied history. It makes me want to bumrush eBay, Surrender to Chance, The Perfumed Court and every back alley in perfumed creation for these scents. And the photos are amazing - this is the only book I've ever read that made me wish I had a Retinal screen to view it on.

This book restores me. So much of modern perfumery, especially the fashion house stuff (Armani, CK, insert-your-mall-brand here) drains the full life out of their scents in favor of blocks of sculpted cheese reclining poolside. This book reminds me that perfume is pure artistic fantasy at its heart - 80 or 90 years ago, the ads alone put more sizzle and heat into just their posters than the entire fashion scene puts into even one of its fragrances now.

S & S is a gorgeous reminder that perfumery has something to say, that it's not just a wan, sanitized, "corporate", safe accessory to someone's career ladder. A good bottle of scent can stop time, release you from the world, and create curious pathways to study. S&S is crammed full of those possibilities.

And I think that's the part that I love the most about it - that someone else gets this. That the author went out and fell down the rabbit hole, then mucked about and slathered herself in stink and reported back to us of all the riches in the dragon's lair.

This book is a must for 'fumeheads everywhere, or any casual fan of perfume who wants to see how serious glamour was in fashion back in the day. An absolutely gorgeous and informative addition to scent literature.
26 internautes sur 28 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x990af3b4) étoiles sur 5 Tour de force of Vintage as well as Post-Modern information 12 novembre 2013
Par Jordan River - Publié sur
Format: Relié
I am walking along the longest path of the world, searching for the book of my heart.

Vien Tuc
Đà Lạt

Imagine a whole world where everyone smells of CK One. You probably don't have to imagine; you have probably been there as has Barbara Herman from the website Yesterday's Perfume. One day Barbara rebelled against office-friendly scents and went searching for the rude, the loud, the odd, the weird and the impolite. What she mostly found was vintage perfume and then some cutting edge 21st century olfactive artists. This led her on a fragrant journey through the 20th century which became her book Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Fragrance.

Throughout the book are pictures like posters for a scent cinema or as Barbara writes...

"like movie posters to perfume's invisible cinema."

These posters have been collected by Barbara over many years and reveal a lot about perfume, society and marketing `art'.

This is not a picture book though there are many full colour pictures. Barbara starts off with the thoughts of Aristotle and Plato and continues through Fliess and Freud to Chandler Burr, Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. She quotes Olivia Giacobetti, Christophe Laudamiel, and Avery Gilbert. In Part 3 there are interviews with Étienne de Swardt, Antoine Lie, Sissal Tolaas, and Martynka Wawrzyniak as well as a profile on Christopher Brosius.

In Part 1 Barbara courses through the development of `Perfume: is it art? I like Barbara's conclusion that Perfume is a language.

Part 2 is a tour de force of 300+ vintage fragrances, including drugstore, all with back stories that you may have never heard before. I am not a vintage connoisseur so I learnt a lot from this book. If you know your vintage `fumes then I imagine you will be delighted with the way they are portrayed in Scents and Subversion.

On Jicky

"the personality of a cat... sometimes with perfume more is more."

While I know the house Santa Maria Novella I had never heard of Peau d'Espagne - now I have and now I have ordered it on the strength of Barbara's description...

"so strong you can almost taste it."

Did you know that Caron released a 1911 perfume called Narcisse Noir , The Black Narcissus?

One perfume is described as...

"a sexual flower, one that is at its most fragrant, from a meadow in full bloom on the hottest spring day, visited by the horniest, healthiest bees at the height of health."

I won't tell you which one. Nor will I tell you what Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché smelt like in 1932 or which perfume house released a Coconut Cuir Chypre.

There are tantalizing `notes not known' under many perfumes. This is bound to provide additional material for the 2nd edition as Vintage Perfumistas analyze and discuss their knowledge and note proposals across The Fragrant Stratosphere. Octavian Coifan and Yann Vasnier are credited with supplying some previously never-before-revealed notes from vintage samples sent to them by Barbara.

On Modern vs Vintage

"the difference between modern and vintage perfumery is akin to the difference between polyester and velvet."

Part III looks at the future of scent and tells the the story of how the author's nose lost it's virginity. Perspective on the work of Étienne de Swardt, Antoine Lie, Christopher Brosius, Sissal Tolaas, Martynka Wawrzyniak, and Christophe Laudamiel make for an interesting read as does the chapter called A Brief History of Animal Notes in Perfume.

I think coffee table for the hardcover and the e-book for bedside reading.

This is a book you could read again and again as your own knowledges grows and as vintage bottles materialize on your own fragrant journey. If you already know everything then here it is all in one place. If you are new to perfume appreciation then a glossary and a guide called "Perfume 101: How to become an Informed Perfume Lover", will become your reference points as you begin your own fragrant journey.

On the website Now Smell This, Aleta describes this book as

"a worthy flanker to Perfumes: The Guide, one that takes something of the original format in order to build its own point of view."

Yes it is worthy flanker; a great companion volume.

In this book you will read about perfume set to music; this book is perfume set to words, erudite words that bespeak a mountain of research. Barbara has walked a long path, searching and researching. She has climbed the perfume mountain and found her own spot on the vintage plateau. What a view. This is the book of her heart.

A sample of pictures from the book:
4 internautes sur 4 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x990af714) étoiles sur 5 Pure pleasure 14 décembre 2013
Par E.J. Disfarmer - Publié sur
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
There are so many wonderful things about this book, not the least of which are its gorgeous design and lovely full-color reproductions of fabulous vintage perfume advertisements.

But the best thing for me is the abundantly evident enthusiasm, curiosity, and enjoyment with which the author approaches her subject matter. Writing about perfume isn't the easiest thing in the world (no matter how effortless Turin & Sanchez make it seem), but Ms. Herman has a deft touch in making these scents jump to life off the page ... and making at least this reader start prowling eBay and vintage decant websites for samples of the perfumes she so lusciously describes.

An essential addition to the small but growing library of perfume reference works, and a book which I know I'll be dipping into for years to come whenever I need to remind myself that perfume is indeed "the most portable form of intelligence".
3 internautes sur 3 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
HASH(0x990af4c8) étoiles sur 5 and now her book is just as much a joy to read 13 décembre 2014
Par Avid reader - Publié sur
Format: Relié Achat vérifié
I have long been a fan of Barbara Herman's blog Yesterday's Perfume, and now her book is just as much a joy to read.

Like "The Guide," by Turin and Sanchez, it discusses the virtues of fragrance as a wine connoisseur discusses wines--without shame. Fragrance can indeed be enjoyed like fine food or wine--as a sensual pleasure. One may not agree with all the comments and observations Herman makes, but this book is a great writing on the great perfumes of history since the advent of commercial perfumery. Her writing is tongue-in-cheek and informative, hilarious at times, and never boring. A must for every perfume aficionado!
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