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+ EUR 5,90 (livraison)
+ Livraison gratuite
Tusq PQ-9280-C0 Sillet de chevalet compensé pour guitare acoustique
|Prix :||EUR 13,99 LIVRAISON GRATUITE.|
|Tous les prix incluent la TVA.|
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Description du produit
GRAPHTECH TUSQ bridge inlay pour la plupart des guitares acoustiques courantes en version compensée pour un meilleur réglage de l'intonation. Vue d'ensemble : Barre Tusq incrustée Compensés Convient pour les guitares acoustiques
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3/29/18 Update .. I went ahead and sanded the saddle down to the old saddle height ... adjusted the truss rod a little and it is great now :) very happy with this purchase :)
From Graphtech circa 2012:
"There are a couple of differences between the 9280 & the 9281. The 9280 has the classic “step intervals” compensation for each string, whereas the 9281 has more of a “serpentine” compensation (contact point gradually slops back and forth across the top of the saddle) The other variable is that the 9281 has a 16” radius, but the 9280 is 12” (more common). If you have a Seagull from 1990 the 9280 will be an appropriate as we manufactured the 9281 saddle for Godin specifically within the last couple years. "
The main thing to be aware of is that this is far from a precut piece. Because this is a product designed to be used in a wide variety of instruments, it is cut to be larger than any guitar needs. While it is possible it may fit lengthwise into your guitar at first, there is a high probability that you will need to sand the sides down and there is 100% probability that you will have to sand a good portion of the bottom off. While I am an experienced musician and have a lot of background in insturment repair, this is the first time I had done anything like this with my acoustic guitar. I will share some "saddle installation 101" tips for all of you after my first run here because I couldn't really find a comprehensive guide anywhere.
First, be aware that you will have to figure in the cost of some sandpaper when purchasing this. If you are buying on a budget, be aware that you may need to purchase about $5 of sandpaper to get this product to fit on your instrument. I personally used multisurface aluminum oxide sheets from a local hardware store. I recommend having 1 sheet of 36 grit, 1 sheet of 100/150 grit, 2 sheets of 220 grit, and 1 sheet of 320 and perhaps an optional sheet of 600 to polish it up.
1. Start by sanding the saddle to width. You can check this by taking out the old saddle and then sticking the side of the Tusq in the slot and running it from end to end. If it fits snug, then you are good to go. If not, sand it down verly slowly - make sure you take off just enough to slide it in. You don't want it to be able to wiggle around. For this, I recommend using only the 220 grit and then polishing it down with the 600/320. Lay the sandpaper on a table and slide the saddle back and forth about 10 times, flip it over and repeat. Check the saddle after each rotation. I do bothsides so that it better maintains the ratio of the angles on the top end. Sanding only one side my effect the height ratio of the compensated angles on the top.
2. Next sand the saddle to length. Take out the old saddle and hold the bottoms together. Try to center your old saddle on the Tusq so that you are taking equal amounts from both sides. This will ensure that the tusq is centered on your bridge and that the cut-ins on top align with your bridge pins the way they should. Take a mechanical pencil (important because you need the accuracy of the thin lead)and color in the portion of the saddle that you are going to sand off. I found this to be easier to see than a simple line.
3. Use the 100/150 grit to sand away the excess material. Do NOT go all the way up to the line as you will want to polish this down a little which will also take some material off. Remember that fractions of a millimeter matter. So go slow! The other thing to be careful about is keeping it directly upright - that you are not shaving it off at an angle - and that you are maintaining the curvature of the sides. If you find you are having trouble controlling the 100/150 grit, switch to 220. Finally, polish with the 600/320.
4. The last step takes the longest. While the product instructions say to use between 220 and 600 grit sandpaper, this step is why I recommend getting some 36 grit. Had I not done this, I am pretty sure this process would have taken me a week of sanding about an hour or two a day with 220. The most important part of this step is making sure you have something that is square and is a flat edge you can use as a guide as you sand. I used an old printer cartridge and it worked! Take your old bridge and mechanical pencil and make a similar mark if you are comfortable with the action on your guitar as it is. Of course, if you want higher action sand off less, if you want lower action sand a little more - keeping in mind that fractions of a millimeter make a huge difference... Lay the paper down, put your guide on it, hold the saddle flush to the guide and slide back and forth. With 36 grit sandpaper, this literally took me a few hours. Set up a TV show or movie and get comfortable. Again, once you are close, make minor adjustments with the 220 and polish with the 600/320. If you have a saddle pickup, this is very important to make sure everything as equal contact to the pickup.
One other note about this part, you existing saddle may have a higher or lower arch than this and it also might be angled different than the product. If you do try to make some angle/pitch alterations to make this more closely match your existing saddle, switch to the 100/150 grit paper so that you don't over do it. As always, fractions of a millimeter make a huge difference. Go slow!
A long, long process but it makes you appreciate the results in the end more I guess. In terms of actual tone quality, it is hard for me to judge because I changed my bridge pins and string thickness at the same time I did all this. What I would say is that this is a higher quality material than plastic and I can say from a commonsense standpoint is at least allowing some more upper overtones to vibrate in my strings. My old plastic saddle was softer and as a result became notched from the string tension over a short period of time. These notches undoubtedly "hugged" my strings which would result in muffled vibrations, particularly in these upper frequencies. This saddle isn't notching at all and will most like more efficiently transfer all the tone to both the bridge and pickup on my instrument.
These things are subjective and highly personal so I won't recommend the product in that way. What I will say is that I am glad I bought it and I would buy it again if I had to make the same decision.