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THE WHITE SPIDER - THE HISTORY OF THE EIGER'S NORTH FACE (Anglais) Relié – 1959

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4,5 étoiles sur 5 54 Commentaires sur Amazon.com us-flag |

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4.0 étoiles sur 5 The White Spider review. 7 novembre 2016
Par cheryl - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Format Kindle Achat vérifié
I read this book after it was recommended by Joe Simpson in his book. It would have been nice to see some illustrations so I could imagine where various parts were that were discussed although I did end up googling The Eiger I was so curious. The White Spider is a story about some very brave, humble heros who respected and climbed what must be one of the hardest mountains of the lot.
It did drag on a bit from the middle onwards, but still worth the read.
2 internautes sur 2 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile 
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Riveting and spellbinding first-hand story of the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand after several deadly attempts 18 septembre 2009
Par Jerome Ryan - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
In the 1930s the Eiger Nordwand (North Wall) was considered the last and greatest of Alpine problems left in the world. The White Spider is a portion of the upper face where snow-filled cracks radiate from an ice-field resembling the legs of a spider.

The book begins by describing the early attempts to climb the Nordwand, including the harrowing stories of Max Sedlmayer and Karl Mehringer who froze to death in 1935, and Toni Kurz, Andreas Hinterstoisser, Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer who died in 1936.

Harrer then tells his first-hand story of the first ascent. Harrer and Fritz Kasparek started their climb on July 21, 1938. A day later, Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg started their attempt and quickly caught up to them. They combined into one team of four, led by Heckmair. The four men were caught in an avalanche as they climbed the Spider, but all had enough strength to resist being swept off the face.

"We were all on a single rope. ... One hundred feet above me stood Vorg, safeguarding Heckmair, as he grappled with icy rock, treacherous ice gullies, and snowslides high above us in the mists and driving snow." Heckmair fell as he led the difficult Exit Cracks, but was caught by Vorg, his crampons piercing Vorg's hand in the process. On July 24, 1938 Heckmair, Vörg, Kasparek, and Harrar completed the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand.

Harrer then continues the Eiger story, including the dramatic rescue of Claudio Corti trapped high on the face near the Exit Cracks in 1957. Harrer added a few more chapters in 1964, including the story of Adolf Mayr who fell to his death in 1961 trying for the first solo ascent. After reaching the Second Icefield in 1962 Barry Brewster was struck by a falling rock. His partner Brian Nally tried to care for the dying man, but eventually Brewster fell from the face. Famed British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans stopped their attempt to rescue the now disoriented Nally.

The stories of the tragic attempts are chilling, the first ascent riveting, the entire book spellbinding. This book is a great history of the Eiger Nordwand. The appendix is better in later editions because Harrer corrects some of the ascents, given more information like finding the bodies of Nothdurft and Mayer in 1961, and includes the list of ascents up to the 1970s. The photos are very good.
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5.0 étoiles sur 5 A classy "classic" account 18 mars 2014
Par KYL - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
Mr. Harrer reflects the discretion and unselfish character that I have found more often in the accounts given by those prior to approximately 1970. As a product of the 1970s, I am humbled and impressed by his detailed accuracy that is without the slightest hint of self exaltation and reflects a fairness to others that is not often seen today. He sticks to the facts, amazing as they are, and tells a story that has no part in the petty squabbles that occur many times in the accounts of today.
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5.0 étoiles sur 5 A Fantastic Novel! 30 septembre 2012
Par Evan Wearne - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
This was a great novel! Harrer's description of his climb was relatively brief, but exciting and captivating! I couldn't put the book down until I finished his account of the ascent of the Eiger. Even the summit and descent contained interesting nuggets of information. His accounts of all the other climbers were fascinating as well. By the time I reached his story, his description of previous attempts had instilled me with an appropriate amount of apprhension. Much of the narrative contains topics not of particular interest, but do display the culture of climbers from his time period. A great read and description of the magnificence of the Eiger.
5.0 étoiles sur 5 Exciting 22 mai 2014
Par Laila Bremner - Publié sur Amazon.com
Format: Broché Achat vérifié
It was hard to find this book in the libraries where I live or even as an ebook. I watched the film "North Face" and I inmediatelly wanted to read this book since I myself have been a mountaneer. Nice reading. It is the history of every climb made in the the North Face of the Eiger (up to 1980's, I think). The film was very well made and as I read the encounter, it is very similar with the film. But even the rest of the book is really good. Anyways, I got the book soon from this seller and as promised. Thanks.
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